A unique ruffled collar worn by both men and women in the 16th and 17th centuries in Europe. It was generally made by gluing thin, high-quality linen, cheesecloth, or lawn with a round trowel and pleating it into a continuous S-shape or wave shape, sometimes in very light colors such as blue or yellow. The ruffs of the heyday required highly advanced techniques and were expensive. The shapes and sizes varied with the era, and early ruffs were small and simple, but gradually they became large and elaborately wheel-shaped, often with multiple layers of lace trim. As a result, some ruffs required up to 15 meters of fabric. In the 17th century, they changed to a type that hung down like a collar, a type that supported the neck flat, and a type that spread out like a fan toward the nape of the neck, and the fan-shaped type was supported by a wire frame. Its origin is unclear, but it is thought to have spread throughout Europe via Italy along with the Spanish style that dominated the 16th century. Ruffs came to Japan with the Nanban culture and were worn by dandy men in the Azuchi-Momoyama period. Rough |
ヨーロッパの 16~17世紀にかけて男女に用いられた独特のひだ襟。一般には薄手上質の亜麻布,寒冷紗,ローンなどに糊づけして丸ごてをあてながら連続したS字形や波状にひだ寄せしてつくり,ときには青や黄などの非常に淡い色が施された。盛期のものはきわめて高度な技術を必要とし,高価であった。形や大きさは時代によってさまざまであり,初期のものは小型で単純であったが,次第に大型で入念な車輪形となり,何段にも重ねてレースの縁飾りを施したものが多くなった。このため 15mもの布地を必要とするものもあった。 17世紀に入ると,襟状に垂れ下がる型や扁平に首を支える型,うなじの方向に扇形に広がる型などに変り,扇形のものは針金の枠で支えられた。発生は定かではないが,16世紀を支配したスペイン風の流行とともにイタリアを経由してヨーロッパ中に広まったと考えられる。ラフは南蛮文化とともに日本にも渡来し,安土桃山時代の伊達者に用いられた。
ラフ
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