Kitano's millet rice cakes - Kitano's millet rice cakes

Another reason was the expansion of confectionery shops. Most of the ingredients were homemade, so even just making flour of different particle sizes would have required new techniques and a lot of labor. From around the mid-Muromachi period, full-scale confectionery shops with techniques and facilities on a different level than those sold at tea shops in front of temples and shrines, at commercial areas, or along major roads, such as the millet rice cakes of Kitano in Kyoto, the mitarashi rice cakes of Kamo, the roasted rice cakes of Kiyomizuzaka, and the kuzu rice cakes of Nitzsaka in Totomi and the ten dangos of Utsunoya Pass in Suruga, which seem to be "kefukigusa," were established in big cities such as the three major capitals. In Edo, such stores were almost without exception called "Kyoto confectioners," and bore the titles of "zuriyomei" (administrative names) such as Kikyoya Kawachi, Maruya Harima, Suzuki Echigo, Kanazawa Tango, and Torikai Ise, and claimed to serve the Imperial Court, the shogunate, various large feudal domains, and large temples and shrines.

*Some of the terminology used in reference to "Kitano Awamochi" is listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…もう一つの理由としては菓子屋の規模が大きくなったことである。材料そのものも大半は自家製造であったから，粒度の異なる粉をつくるだけでも，新しい技術とより多くの労力を必要としたはずであり，室町中期ころから寺社門前や盛場，あるいは主要街道筋で名物の餅やだんごを売った茶店，京都でいえば北野の粟餅（あわもち），賀茂の御手洗（みたらし）だんご，清水坂の炙餅（やきもち）その他，東海道では遠江日坂（につさか）の葛餅や駿河宇津谷（うつのや）峠の十（とお）だんごなど《毛吹草》に見えるようなものとは，技術も設備も次元を異にする本格的な菓子屋が三都などの大都市には成立したのである。江戸ではそうした店はほぼ例外なしに京菓子司を称し，桔梗屋河内，丸屋播磨，鈴木越後，金沢丹後，鳥飼伊勢などと受領名（ずりようめい）を名乗り，禁裏，幕府，諸大藩，大寺社などの御用をうたうようになった。…

※「北野の粟餅」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

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