Itari cooking - Itari cooking

Japanese: いたり料理 - いたりりょうり

...In the early modern period, while cranes were highly prized by the samurai, ducks came to be considered an absolute delicacy by the common people, and the words duck and the taste of duck came to mean supreme feasts, pleasures, prey, good fortune, and so on. There are many duck dishes in Ihara Saikaku's works, but in Nihon Eitaigura, the words "Kamonamasu (duck fish) and cedar-grilled itari cuisine" are particularly noteworthy. Itari cuisine means elaborate and luxurious cuisine, and representative luxurious dishes were kamonamasu, in which the meat is cut into strips with the skin and fat removed, washed in warm sake and topped with wasabi vinegar, and cedar-grilled, in which salt is spread on the bottom of a cedar box and then set on the fire, in which miso is dissolved and duck, sea bream, tofu, green onions, water chestnuts, and yams are boiled and eaten. ...

From [Ceramics]

...Miso is dissolved in a thick solution and boiled in a cedar box, and fish and birds such as sea bream and duck are added and cooked in it. A thick layer of salt is applied to the bottom of the box with glue to prevent the fish from burning. This is a stylish dish that gives the sea bream or duck meat a subtle woody aroma, and the Nihon Eitaigura lists it as one of the "ita-ryori" dishes, which mean extremely luxurious dishes. Eel became popular overnight due to the revolutionary change in the cooking method of kabayaki, and it was during the Edo period that shigi-yaki changed from yakitori made of shigi itself to a dish made with eggplant, and kiji-yaki also changed from a dish made with pheasant to a dish made with tofu, and then to a dish made with grilled fillets of fish. ...

*Some of the terminology that refers to "Itari cuisine" is listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

Japanese:

…近世に入ると，武家は鶴を珍重したが，カモは庶民層によってこよない美味とされるようになり，カモやカモの味の語は，無上のごちそうや快楽，あるいは獲物，幸運などを意味するようにもなった。井原西鶴の作品にはカモ料理の名が多く見られるが，とくに《日本永代蔵》には〈鴨鱠（かもなます），杉焼のいたり料理〉という語があって注目される。いたり料理は手のこんだぜいたくな料理の意で，脂皮を除いて細切りにした肉をあたためた酒で洗ってワサビ酢をかける鴨鱠，杉箱の底に塩をぬりつけて火にかけ，その中でみそを溶かしてカモ，タイ，豆腐，ネギ，クワイ，ヤマノイモなどを煮て食べる杉焼といったものが，代表的なぜいたく料理だったというわけである。…

【焼物】より

…杉箱の中にみそを濃く溶いて煮立て，そこへタイ，カモなどの魚鳥や野菜を入れて煮るもので，杉箱の底にはのり(糊)で塩を厚く塗りつけて焼けないようにした。タイやカモの肉にほのかな木香（きが）をうつすというしゃれたもので，《日本永代蔵》はぜいたくきわまる料理という意味の〈いたり料理〉の一つにこれを挙げている。ウナギは蒲焼の調理法の革命的変化によって一躍万人の賞美するものになり，しぎ焼がシギそのものの焼鳥からナスの料理に変わったのも，きじ焼が同様にキジを材料とするものから豆腐の料理へ，さらに切身の魚の付け焼きへと変化したのも，江戸時代のことであった。…

※「いたり料理」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典第２版について | 情報

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