Morning clothes - Chofuku

A type of clothing worn by the ancient aristocracy. In addition to official duties such as ceremonies and events at the Imperial Court, high-ranking individuals also wore it for ordinary (daily) official duties. The color of the upper garment of the morning dress was determined by the rank (called the "tojiki"), and the style was strongly influenced by Iranian-style Tang-style clothing. The name "morning dress" first appeared in the "Nihon Shoki" in the "Kanoeuma" section of July, 685, the 14th year of the reign of Emperor Tenmu, but its origin can be found in the system of twelve ranks of caps and ranks established in the 11th year of the reign of Emperor Suiko (603). The cap and rank system, which indicated rank by type of cap, was revised many times after that, and in 682, the system was changed to one in which the caps were all black and the colors of the jacket were used to distinguish ranks, and Tang-style clothing began to be partially introduced into the style of clothing. After further revisions during the reign of Emperor Jito, the morning dress took on the style depicted in the murals of the Takamatsuzuka Tomb. Then, in the Taiho Code enacted in the first year of the Taiho era (701) of Emperor Mommu, ceremonial attire was stipulated in addition to the morning attire, and was to be worn during ceremonies by those of fifth rank or higher. The Yoro Code, which was a slight revision of the Taiho Code, further completed the clothing system, and established the formality of the morning attire.

The Yoro Clothing Order specifies the morning uniforms for civil servants, military officials, and women. The morning uniforms for civil servants consist of a hood, robe, scepter, white hakama, sash, white trousers, and crowskin sandals. The hood is the same as the lacquered gauze crown of the reign of Emperor Tenmu, the predecessor of the crown of later times, and was made of black silk for those of fifth rank or higher, and black katori (plain silk) for those of sixth rank or lower. The robe is an upper garment with a brocade hem, and the appropriate color is specified. The scepter is made of ivory for those of fifth rank or higher, and wood for those of sixth rank or lower. The belt was made of black leather and fastened with a buckle called kako, and the decoration was gold and silver for those of the fifth rank or higher, and black leather for those of the sixth rank or lower. Sozuri was a pair of socks made of white silk, and kurokagi was a pair of shoes made of black leather.

The morning uniform of a military officer consists of a hood, rank kimono (traditional Japanese kimono), scepter, white hakama, obi, tachi (side sword), white trousers, leg scarf, and sandals. Those of the fifth rank or higher wear a black hood, while those of the sixth rank or lower wear a black twill, with black ochikake (traditional Japanese kimono) on both sides of the face. The rank kimono is a plain brocade top with no stitching at the sides, and the color varies depending on the rank. The scepter, white hakama, and obi are the same as those of civil servants. The tachi (traditional Japanese kimono) is a long sword worn with a flat braided cord, and those of the fifth rank or higher wear a gold and silver kimono, while those of the sixth rank or lower wear a black kimono. During the assembly, depending on the rank, they wear brocade trousers, red shin guards, bows and arrows, or armor called keikou, and carry spears. At this time, the Eji do not wear rank fusuma, but wear peach-dyed robes, white cloth belts, white shin guards, straw sandals, and carry bows and arrows or spears on their swords.

For women of the fifth rank or higher, the composition of the formal attire is the same as that of the formal attire, except for the topknot, pleats, and shoes. In other words, the robe, soenobi, and yuhata nomo are the same as those of the formal attire, with the exception of white trousers and black leather sandals. Those of the sixth rank or lower wear the topknot, robe, soenobi, yuhata nomo, white trousers, and black leather sandals. As with civil servants, the robe is the same color as the formal attire, but the shape is thought to be different. The soenobi is a sash with a border, and the yuhata nomo is a tie-dyed long skirt. The color scheme of both the obi and the skirt varies depending on the rank of the woman. The 'Yoshikage' is a kamoji, and the 'Kasugamo' is a skirt made of thin strips of tie-dyed green and indigo silk sewn together vertically. The skirts of those of lower rank are not tie-dyed. The morning dress for women is said to be worn on the four days of the month (January, April, July, and October), and it is likely that they were usually shortened versions of the morning dress used for serving in the inner court. The Clothing Order does not specify the material of the dress aside from the hood, but as early as 690 (the 4th year of the reign of Empress Jito), those of higher ranks, such as Jikikoshi, were allowed to wear ryora silk, and in the Heian period, the 'Engishiki' states that those of the 5th rank or higher should wear aya silk, and those of the 6th rank or lower should wear plain silk.

The style of morning clothing in the Nara period can be seen to some extent from the clothing preserved in the Shosoin Repository. During the Heian period, styles gradually became more Japanese, and around the 10th century, morning clothing became somewhat looser, as shown by sculptures of deity statues from that time. From this time on, morning clothing for men was called sokutai, and the style of morning clothing for women in particular changed significantly from the 11th century onwards, coming to be called mo, karaginu, or nyobo no sozoku.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

古代貴族階級の衣服の一種。朝廷における儀式や行事である公事(くじ)のほか、尋常（日常）の公務にも有位の者が着用した。朝服の上着には官位相当の色（当色(とうじき)といわれる）の区別があり、形式はイラン系唐風服装の影響が強い。朝服という名称の初見は『日本書紀』天武(てんむ)天皇14年（685）7月庚午(かのえうま)条であるが、その起源は推古(すいこ)天皇11年（603）に定められた冠位十二階の制に求められる。冠の種別により位階を示す冠位制は、その後幾度も改訂され、天武天皇11年（682）に冠は黒一色とし上着の色で区別する制度に切り替えられて、衣服形式も唐風が一部に導入され始めた。さらに持統(じとう)朝の改訂を経て、朝服は高松塚古墳壁画に描かれているような形式となった。そして、文武(もんむ)天皇の大宝(たいほう)元年（701）に成った大宝令(りょう)で、朝服に加えて礼服(らいふく)を定め、五位以上の者が儀式のときに着用するものとした。さらに、大宝令に若干手を入れた養老(ようろう)令によって衣服の制度もほぼ完成し、朝服の形式も整った。

　養老の衣服令では文官・武官・女子の朝服に分けて規定している。文官の朝服は頭巾(ときん)、衣(きぬ)、笏(しゃく)、白袴(しろばかま)、腰帯(ようたい)、白襪(しろしとうず)、烏皮履(くりかわのくつ)という構成である。頭巾は天武朝の漆紗冠(しっしゃかん)と同じ、後世の冠の前身で、五位以上の者は黒羅(くろら)、六位以下は黒縵(かとり)（平絹）でつくられたもの。衣は裾(すそ)に襴(らん)という部分を加えた上着で、当色が定められている。笏は五位以上は象牙(ぞうげ)、六位以下は木製を用いる。腰帯は黒革製で、鉸具(かこ)といわれるバックルで留め、その飾りは五位以上が金銀装、六位以下が烏油(くろづくり)とした。襪は靴下のことで白絹製、烏皮履は黒革製の沓(くつ)。

　武官の朝服は頭巾、位襖(いおう)、笏、白袴、腰帯、横刀(たち)、白襪、脛巾(はばき)、履という構成である。頭巾は、五位以上の者が黒羅製を、六位以下の者が黒縵製を用い、黒の緌(おいかけ)を顔の両側にかける。位襖は無襴衣で両脇(わき)を縫わずにあけた上着で、位によって色を異にしている。笏、白袴、腰帯は文官のものと同じ。横刀は平組(ひらぐみ)の紐(ひも)で帯びる太刀(たち)で、五位以上の者が金銀装、六位以下の者が烏装(くろづくり)。集会のときには、身分によって錦(にしき)の裲襠(りょうとう)を着け、赤脛巾を巻き、弓箭(ゆみや)を帯び、あるいは挂甲(けいこう)という鎧(よろい)を着け、槍(やり)を持つ。このときに、衛士(えじ)は位襖ではなく、桃染衫(あらぞめのさん)を着て白布帯、白脛巾を用い、草鞋(そうかい)を履き、横刀に弓箭または槍を持つ。

　女子の朝服は、五位以上の者が礼服の構成から宝髻(ほうけい)、褶(ひらみ)、舃(せきのくつ)を省く。すなわち衣、紕帯(そえのおび)、纈裙(ゆはたのも)は礼服と同じで、そのほか白襪、烏皮履としている。六位以下の者が義髻(ぎけい)、衣、紕帯、纈紕裙(ゆはたのそえのも)、白襪、烏皮履の構成である。衣は文官と同様、色が礼服と同じという意で、形は異なったと思われる。紕帯は縁どりをした帯で、纈裙は絞り染めのロングスカート。帯も裙も身分により配色が異なる。義髻はかもじのことで、纈紕裙は緑色と縹(はなだ)色の絞り染めの絹を細く裁ち、縦にはぎ合わせた裙。初位の者の裙には絞り染めをしない。女子の朝服は四孟(しもう)（1月、4月、7月、10月の朔日(ついたち)）に着用とあり、通常は内廷奉仕の衣服として、朝服を略したものを使用したであろう。衣服令では、頭巾以外に材質の規定はないが、すでに690年（持統天皇4）に直広肆(じきこうし)以上の高位の者に綾羅(りょうら)を用いることが許され、平安時代には、『延喜式(えんぎしき)』で五位以上が綾(あや)、六位以下が平絹としている。

　奈良時代の朝服の形式は、正倉院に伝えられた衣服によってある程度察することができる。平安時代、しだいに和様化が進み、10世紀ごろの朝服は、ややゆったりとした形になったことを当時の神像彫刻が示しており、このころから男子の朝服は束帯とよばれ、ことに女子の朝服は11世紀以降、形式が著しく変わり、裳(も)、唐衣(からぎぬ)または女房の装束とよばれるようになった。

［高田倭男］

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例