Long silk

A type of silk fabric. High-quality silk that is tightly woven to give it tension, or tightly stretched with starch. By extension, it refers to kariginu, mizuginu, hitatare, and other garments made from this silk. The long silk mizuginu worn by young samurai for ceremonies such as coming-of-age ceremony consisted of a pair of stiff white silk mizuginu and hakama, with black tassels called kikutoji attached to the chest, sleeves, inner sleeves, and end sleeve seams of the mizugin, two on each side, and two on each side of the thigh stand and above the knees of the hakama, and the collar folded down in a hanging style. In Noh costumes, the garment is a hitatare-style upper garment made of silk fabric in a color not only white but also purple, crimson, or light green, with patterns woven in gold or colored threads; it is worn by male roles as a substitute for kariginu (hunting costume), and by female roles when dancing.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

絹織物の一種。緻密(ちみつ)に固く織って張りをもたせ、あるいは糊(のり)で固く張った上質の絹。転じてこの絹を生地(きじ)として仕立てた狩衣(かりぎぬ)、水干、直垂(ひたたれ)などのこと。武家の若年者が元服などの儀礼に用いた長絹の水干は、張りのある白絹製の水干と袴(はかま)を上下対(つい)にして、黒い菊綴(きくとじ)といわれる総(ふさ)を水干の胸、袖(そで)付け、奥袖、端袖の縫い目に各2個、袴の股立(ももだち)と膝(ひざ)の上のところに各2個つけて、襟を垂領(たりくび)式に折り畳んで着た。能装束では、白に限らず、紫、紅(くれない)、萌黄(もえぎ)などの絽(ろ)地に、金糸や色糸で文様を織り出した直垂形式の上着で、男役は狩衣の代用、女役は舞を舞うときに用いる。

［高田倭男］

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