Hood - Hood

Japanese: 頭巾 - ずきん

A type of headgear worn to protect against the cold, keep out dust, or avoid public attention, by wrapping the head or face in fabric. A rectangular piece of fabric is folded in half to form a tube or sleeve shape, or to have a gusset and a shikoro attached. Round ones can be pinched around the edges to create pleats and then used with a shikoro. When a shikoro is attached, the two pieces are often folded from the front and tied together behind the back, or tied under the chin, so that they function completely as a mask. The word "tokin" is also used in ancient clothing, but this is pronounced "tokin" and is connected to the bokutou (headband) used in the clothing system that was created with the influx of Chinese clothing culture, and has no relation to the zukin (headgear) referred to here.

Hoods began to develop as headgear worn by monks during the Muromachi period, but they only became popular after the Edo period. Among the hoods that were commonly worn by men in the early Edo period were the round hood, the square hood, and the ramie hood. The round hood was later called the Daikoku hood after the statue of Daikokuten, the god of good fortune, and the oldest surviving one is thought to be a round hood made of crepe and kept by Tokugawa Ieyasu at the Tokugawa Art Museum in Nagoya. The square hood, also called the horn hood, is a rectangular piece of cloth folded in half to form a rectangle. It was so named because the left and right corners form horns when folded, and was dyed light blue or brown and worn by servants and other lower-ranking people. The long folded rectangular hood is called the nage hood. As the name suggests, a hemp hood is a hood made from hemp.

A sashika is a long, narrow piece of cloth made of the same material as the hood, worn at the back of the head. It first came to be worn on the round hoods of monks around the Tenna and Jokyo eras (1681-88), and later came to be worn on the front of a square hood to cover the face. It was used by puppeteers in Bunraku puppet theatre and came to be called the Takeda hood. From the Kan'en era (1748-51), the Sojuro hood, named after the first Kabuki actor Sawamura Sojuro, became extremely popular. Also, around the time of the Horeki era (1751-64), the first Nakamura Tomijuro, a female actor from Osaka, wore a purple crepe hood to protect against the cold when traveling from Osaka to Edo. This hood was called the Daimin hood and became very popular among young women of the time. A black cloth version of the hemp hood worn by woodcutters was called the Yamaoka hood, and was worn by samurai and townspeople when going out or to protect against the cold. While the Yamaoka hood was widely used in Edo, in Kamigata the Sojuro hood was popular as a samurai headgear.

Meanwhile, towards the end of the Edo period, the round hood became a headgear worn by the elderly, and was called a "horoku hood" because of its resemblance to a roasting pot used to roast sesame seeds. In Edo, where fires were frequent, the navy cotton sashiko hoods worn by firefighters were called "neko hoods." At the end of the Edo period, Western guns became more important than swords and spears, and Western-style training became popular. The hood used by Egawa Tarozaemon, the magistrate of Nirayama in Izu, for his peasant soldiers was called the Nirayama hood. The ship-bottom hood was also created as a variation of the Yamaoka hood. There was also a hood called a "saru hood."

The Mebakari hood used by women was a mask shaped like roasted black beans, and was also called a Strange Hood. In the mid-Edo period, sleeve hoods shaped like kimono sleeves became popular, and they can often be seen in the ukiyo-e prints of Suzuki Harunobu. In the Meiji period, the Okoso hood, named after the monk Nichiren Shonin and made of pale purple crepe, became popular. This type of hood was known as a furoshiki bocchi and was used in farming, mountain and fishing villages.

[Takeshi Endo]

Western

The English word hood, sometimes called a coif, a veil, or a French word bonnet, refers to a cloth headgear that covers the head and face, and is also called a cloth hat. Ancient Egyptian kings often wore striped cloth hoods, ancient Persian nobles wore turban-like hoods wrapped around their heads, and ancient Greek women also wore bag-shaped cloth hoods. During the Romanesque Middle Ages, men generally wore a tight-fitting cloth hat that covered the ears called a coif, and women generally wore a type of veil called a wimple.

In the Gothic period, men began to wear a chaperon, a hood made of wool. Renaissance women, who had neatly styled hair, wore a type of padded cloth hat called a Dutch coif, or various types of hoods. In the Baroque period, hoods made of muslin or taffeta were seen, but they were few in number. In contrast, during the Rococo period, which favored elegance, mobcaps, indoor hats like cloth hats, and bonnets were at their peak among women, and at the end of the period, calashes, hoods that covered huge wigs, became popular. Bonnets continued to be used among various women's hats even in the 19th century, and were especially worn by Quakers and children. However, this type of hood-like headgear has been steadily decreasing since the beginning of the 20th century, and has gradually disappeared, especially with the spread of hatlessness after World War II.

[Akira Ishiyama]

"Takeshi Endo, 'Early Modern Appearance Booklet'" (included in 'Clothing Culture' No. 18, 1952, Bunka Publishing Bureau)" ▽ "Kitagawa Morisada, 'Collection of Early Modern Manners and Customs' (1934, Saisei-kaku)"

[Reference] | Headgear

Main types of hoods (Japan)
©Minoru Sugai

Main types of hoods (Japan)

Main types of hoods (Western)
©Minoru Sugai

Main types of hoods (Western)

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

頭部または顔面を布帛(ふはく)で包んで、寒さを防ぎ、ほこりをよけ、あるいは人目を避けるために用いられる、被(かぶ)り物の一種。長方形の布を二つ折りにして、筒形、袖(そで)形にし、あるいは襠(まち)を入れ、また錣(しころ)をつけたりする。丸形のものは、周囲をつまんでひだをとり、これに錣をつけて用いる場合もある。錣をつけた場合は、左右の2枚を前から回して背後で結び合わせたり、あごの下で結び留めて、まったく覆面的な役割を果たす場合も多い。「頭巾」の語は、古代の服飾にも用いられているが、これは「ときん」と読み、中国服装文化の流入によってできた服制に用いられた幞頭(ぼくとう)とのつながりをもつもので、ここでいう頭巾(ずきん)とは関係ない。

　頭巾は室町時代、僧侶(そうりょ)の被り物として発達を始めるが、その流行は江戸時代に入ってからのことである。江戸初期に多く用いられた男性のものには、丸頭巾、角(すみ)頭巾、苧屑(おくそ)頭巾がある。丸頭巾は後世になると、福の神の大黒天の像から大黒頭巾といわれるが、現存する最古のものは、徳川美術館（名古屋）にある徳川家康所用の縮緬(ちりめん)製の丸頭巾と思われる。角(すみ)頭巾は角(つの)頭巾ともいい、長方形の布を二つ折り矩形(くけい)にしたもので、左右の角(すみ)を折ると角(つの)となるところからそうよばれ、下僕などの下級の者が浅葱(あさぎ)や茶褐色に染めて用いた。長方形の後ろに、長く折り曲げたものが投(なげ)頭巾である。苧屑頭巾はその文字のように、麻を使ってつくられた頭巾である。

　錣というのは、頭巾の後頭部に下げた、頭巾と同布の細長い布帛(ふはく)のことである。天和(てんな)、貞享(じょうきょう)（1681～88）ごろ僧侶の丸頭巾につけることがおこり、これがのちに角頭巾の前額部に下げて顔を覆うようになり、人形浄瑠璃(じょうるり)の人形遣いに用いられて竹田頭巾といった。寛延(かんえん)年間（1748～51）から、歌舞伎(かぶき)役者初世沢村宗十郎の名をとった宗十郎頭巾が、非常な勢いで流行した。また宝暦(ほうれき)（1751～64）のころ、大坂の女方役者初世中村富十郎が、大坂から江戸へ下るときに、寒さを防ぐために用いた紫縮緬でつくった頭巾は大明(だいみん)頭巾といわれて、当時の若い女性の間に大流行した。木こりなどがかぶった苧屑頭巾を、黒い布帛でつくったものが山岡頭巾で、武士や町人の外出や防寒用として用いられた。江戸では山岡頭巾が多く用いられたのに対して、上方(かみがた)では宗十郎頭巾が武士の被り物として流行した。

　一方、丸頭巾は江戸末期になると、年寄りの被り物となり、その名称もゴマなどを焙(い)る焙烙(ほうろく)に似ているところから、焙烙頭巾といわれた。火事の多い江戸で、火消人足たちがかぶる紺木綿の刺子頭巾を猫頭巾といった。幕末になって刀や槍(やり)よりも西洋の鉄砲が重要視され、西洋式調練が盛んとなり、伊豆・韮山(にらやま)の代官江川太郎左衛門が農兵たちに用いた頭巾は韮山頭巾といわれた。また山岡頭巾の変形として船底頭巾ができた。猿頭巾というものもある。

　女性が用いる目計(めばかり)頭巾は、黒豆が焙ってはぜたような形をした覆面で、これは奇特頭巾ともよばれた。江戸時代も中期になると、着物の袖(そで)形をした袖頭巾が盛んとなり、鈴木春信(はるのぶ)の浮世絵にはこの姿がよくみられる。明治になってから盛んに用いられたのは、薄紫縮緬仕立ての、日蓮上人(にちれんしょうにん)の名にあやかって名づけられた御高祖(おこそ)頭巾である。この系統のものは、農山漁村では「風呂敷(ふろしき)ぼっち」といわれて用いられた。

［遠藤　武］

西洋

英語のフードhood、ときにはコイフcoif、ベールveil、フランス語のボネbonnetなど、頭や顔を包む布製の被り物をいい、布帽子などともいう。古代エジプトの王はしばしば縞柄(しまがら)の布頭巾を、また古代ペルシアの貴族も巻き布形式のターバン状の頭巾を、また古代ギリシアの女性も袋状の布頭巾をかぶっている。中世ロマネスク期の男性はコイフという耳まで覆うぴったりした布帽子をかぶり、女性はウィンプルwimpleという一種のベールをかぶるのが一般であった。

　ゴシック期になると、男性はシャプロンchaperonという羅紗(らしゃ)製の頭巾をかぶるようになる。髪形をこぢんまりと整えたルネサンス期の女性は、ダッチ・コイフという一種の詰め物を施した布帽子をかぶり、あるいはさまざまな形式のフードをかぶった。バロック期にはモスリンやタフタのフードがみられるが、例としては少ない。これに対し、優美さを好んだロココ期にはモブキャップmobcapという布帽子状の室内帽やボネbonnetが女性間に全盛を極めたほか、末期には巨大化したかつらを覆う幌(ほろ)形の頭巾、カラッシュcalashが流行した。ボネは19世紀に入ってからもさまざまな婦人帽に混じって用いられ、とくにクェーカー教徒や子供にかぶられた。しかし、20世紀に入るにつれてこの種の頭巾形の被り物は減少の一途をたどり、とりわけ第二次世界大戦以後の無帽主義の普及とともに、しだいにみられなくなってきている。

［石山　彰］

『遠藤武「近世姿態冊子」（『被服文化』18号所収・1952・文化出版局）』▽『喜田川守貞著『類聚近世風俗志』（1934・更生閣）』

[参照項目] | 被り物

頭巾のおもな種類（日本）

頭巾のおもな種類（西洋）

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例

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