…It was around this time that kaiseki cuisine started to become popular. According to the Edo Shopping Guide published in 1824 (Bunsei 7), more than a quarter of the approximately 70 restaurants that advertised themselves as 'O-ryori' (cooking) also called themselves 'kaiseki'. In Kyoto, the most well-known restaurants were the Saami and Bun'ami in Maruyama, which were temples of the Jishu sect that had been converted into teahouses, the Niken-chaya in front of the Gion shrine, and the 'Ikesu' restaurants that served mainly river fish dishes, which were common along the Takase River around Sanjo and Shijo. In his Kyouryomanroku, Takizawa Bakin writes, 'The owner of the restaurant in Maruyama was a Buddhist priest who ate meat and was married. Both were called 'Kaname'. … *Some of the terminology that mentions "Ikisu" is listed below. Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information |
…会席料理が流行し始めたのもこのころからで,1824年(文政7)刊の《江戸買物独案内》を見ると,〈御料理〉を看板とする約70店の1/4あまりが〈会席〉を称している。 京都では円山の左阿弥,文阿弥など時衆の寺院から茶屋に転じたところや,祇園社門前の二軒茶屋あるいは三条,四条へんの高瀬川沿いに多くあった〈生洲(いけす)〉と呼ぶ川魚料理主体の店などが知られていた。滝沢馬琴は《羇旅漫録》の中で,〈丸山の料理茶屋のあるじは法師にて肉食妻帯なり,いづれも何阿弥と称す。… ※「生洲」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。 出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報 |
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