Andon Bakama

Also called machi-nashi bakama, it looks the same as machi-ari bakama, but it is cylindrical without crotch, and hence the name comes from the fact that it resembles an andon lantern. In the uma-nori bakama (crotch-bearing hakama) that became men's formal wear after the Meiji period, the hem of the kimono was pulled up to the height of the crotch, which made it inconvenient for everyday standing and behavior, so the height of the crotch was lowered, and it eventually became machi-nashi bakama. It is a casual wear for men, and a hakama for everyday use, and it is comfortable to put on and take off, and to walk in, without putting on or taking off. It is made of fabrics such as tsumugi and cel. Women's hakama are in the andon hakama style, but differ from men's in the number of back pleats, the shape of the back waist, and the width of the string. Men's hakama are worn behind the back and have pleats in the front, while women's hakama have pleats in both the front and back. Women's hakama are made of plain fabrics such as serge, cashmere, or muslin, and come in black, navy blue, or shrimp brown.

[Yasu Fujimoto]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

襠無袴(まちなしばかま)ともいい、外見は襠有袴と同様であるが、襠のない筒形で行灯に似ていることからこの名が出た。明治以後男子の礼装となった馬乗袴(うまのりばかま)（襠有袴）では、長着の裾(すそ)が襠の高さに引き上げられて平常の立ち居ふるまいに不便を感じるので、襠の高さを低くし、ついには襠無袴となったものである。男子の略装、また普段に用いられる袴で、着脱、歩行ともに肩の張らない気安さをもっている。布地は紬(つむぎ)、セルなどを用いる。女袴は行灯袴形式であるが、男子のものとは後ろ襞(ひだ)数、後ろ腰の形、紐(ひも)幅が異なる。男子の袴は後ろに投げ、前に笹襞(ささひだ)をつくるが、女子の袴は前後ともに笹襞にする。女袴の布地はサージ、カシミヤ、モスリンなど、色は黒、紺、えび茶などの無地を用いる。

［藤本やす］

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例