Fukusa cuisine - Fukusa cuisine

In the Edo period, formal hospitality cuisine was called honzen ryori (main meal cuisine), and a slightly simplified version of this was called fukusa ryori (fukusa cuisine). An even further simplification was kaiseki ryori (traditional Japanese cuisine). If we were to compare it to writing, honzen ryori would be written in regular script, fukusa ryori in cursive script, and kaiseki ryori in cursive script. From the mid-Edo period, the samurai class would complete the honzen ryori and then entertain guests with fukusa ryori (traditional Japanese cuisine) in a second party format. After the honzen ryori, they would take off their kamishimo (traditional Japanese kimono), change into fukusa hakama (traditional Japanese formal kimono) and relax, admiring paintings and calligraphy or taking a stroll in the garden, before taking a break before starting the taste-oriented fukusa ryori (traditional Japanese cuisine). The dishes are made with a focus on taste, such as "raw carp," "nabeyaki" (a type of modern sukiyaki or yosenabe made with fish and vegetables), and "ohirawan" (a large bowl with a flat lid containing stewed or grilled dishes with a lot of soup). Fukusa cuisine means abbreviated, as "folded and abbreviated," and fukusa also means soft, so it was also used for soft dishes.

[Tetsunosuke Tada]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

江戸時代、正式の供応料理を本膳(ほんぜん)料理といい、その形を少々簡略化したものを袱紗料理といった。さらに簡略化したのが懐石料理であった。文字に例えれば、本膳料理は楷(かい)書、袱紗料理が行書で、懐石料理は草書ということになる。江戸時代中期から武士階級は、本膳料理を済ませて、さらに二次会形式で袱紗料理を用いてもてなした。本膳料理を終えて裃(かみしも)を脱ぎ、袱紗袴(ばかま)にかえてくつろぎ、書画を鑑賞したり庭園を散歩したりして、ひと休みしてから味本位の袱紗料理に入るのである。この料理の内容は、「コイの生けづくり」、「鍋(なべ)焼き」（魚と野菜を主にした現在のすき焼き、または寄せ鍋の形態の料理）、「大平椀(おおひらわん)」（平たい蓋(ふた)付きの大きな椀に汁の多い煮物や焼き物などを盛り込む）など味本位につくる。袱紗料理は「ふさねて略す」の簡略の意、また、袱紗は柔らかい意もあるので柔らかい料理にも用いた。

［多田鉄之助］

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