Jinbaori - Jinbaori

This garment was worn by military commanders over their armor during the Warring States period at the end of the Middle Ages, and is thought to have originated from a torso garment. Originally, it was probably worn over underarmor when the armor was removed during the battle. Examples believed to date back to the early modern period use Chinese textiles, imported velvet, and woolen cloth, and many are free and elegant with colors, designs, and patterns such as scarlet and bird feathers. There are also wide-sleeved and cloak-like garments, and along with the fabrics, the kiribame technique of the patterns, button fastenings, and frills strongly reflect the tastes of the Southern Barbarians. The word "gusoku haori" appears in the ancient "Muromachi Tono Nikki," so there was a type of haori exclusively for military use around the Tenbun and Eiroku eras (1532-1570). The term "jinbaori" was established during the Edo period, and gradually became a kind of military ceremonial uniform, becoming more dignified and formalized, and becoming clothing for emergencies. At the same time, it also became a sign of rank during wartime, and jinbaori were prescribed as uniform-like clothing by the shogunate and various feudal domains. Many of them had a family crest or a matching seal on the back, a sword guard like an epaulette, a stand-up collar, a collar made of glittering fabric, and a button-fastened board cord, and were used as a more or less consistent style while still retaining some influence from the original Nanban customs.

[Shinichi Saito]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

中世末期、戦国時代に武将が具足(ぐそく)の上に羽織った衣服で、胴服などに由来するものとされる。元来は、軍陣で具足を脱いだ場合の鎧(よろい)下着の上に着用したものであろう。近世初頭とされる遺例には、唐織(からおり)や外国産のビロード、羅紗(らしゃ)なども用い、猩々緋(しょうじょうひ)、鳥毛など色、意匠、模様も自由で華麗闊達(かったつ)なものが多い。また、広袖(ひろそで)や、マント風のものなどもあり、紋様のきりばめの手法、ボタン掛け、フリルなど、布地とともに南蛮的嗜好(しこう)が強く反映している。古く『室町殿日記』に具足羽織の語がみえるので、天文(てんぶん)・永禄(えいろく)（1532～1570）ごろには軍陣専用の羽織の類があったのである。陣羽織の語は江戸時代に定着したもので、しだいに軍陣の礼服の一種のようになり、威儀化、定式化し、非常の際の衣服ともなった。同時に戦時の役職を示す標識ともなり、幕府や諸藩において制服的な衣服として規定される陣羽織も生じた。多くは背に定紋、合印(あいじるし)などをつけ、肩章(けんしょう)様の太刀受(たちうけ)、立襟(たちえり)に、きらびやかな布地の返襟(かえしえり)、ボタン掛けの板紐(いたひも)などの意匠で、少なからず当初の南蛮風俗の影響を残しつつ、ほぼ一定した形式として用いられた。

［齋藤愼一］

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