Shujiang Brocade

Originally, the term meant brocade made in the Chinese state of Shu (Sichuan Province). The southeast corner of Chengdu in Shu has been famous since ancient times as a producer of brocade, with its capital city Jincheng and the river that runs through the area called Jinjiang. The river's water was also well-suited for dyeing, producing vivid colors, which is why it is said that Shujiang brocade got its name. During the Tang dynasty, this region was also famous for its safflower production, and many of the brocades known as Shujiang brocades of the time were red. Examples include the red-ground brocade with linked beads and flower motif unearthed in Turfan Astana, and the red-ground brocade with a lattice lotus pattern, flower tortoiseshell pattern, and a circle of linked beads with a lion and a phoenix, all of which have been preserved in Japan's Horyuji Temple. In particular, the Shujiang brocade handed down in Japan is made using the ancient warp brocade technique, in which both the ground and the pattern are woven with the warp threads, and has a unique charm to its somewhat rigid pattern structure and limited use of colors.

On the other hand, Shujiang Nishiki woven in the Ming dynasty is completely different in style from that of the Tang dynasty, with a deep color scheme dominated by dark green and a unique style in the powerful, structural patterns that are mainly large geometrical structures with large and small kamon motifs placed between them. Some of these have been passed down as famous textiles and are highly valued. In particular, one Shujiang Nishiki handed down by the Maeda family bears the ink-written inscription "Silk Dyeing and Embroidery Department" and is a magnificent piece with a width of approximately 204 centimeters.

[Ogasawara Sae]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

本来は中国の蜀(しょく)の国（四川(しせん)省）で製作された錦(にしき)の意。蜀の成都の東南角は古代から錦の産地として名高く、その主都を錦城(きんじょう)、その地方を流れる川を錦江と称した。またその川の水が染色に適し、鮮明な色彩を染め出したことから、とくに蜀江錦の名が出たといわれる。唐代にはこの地方は紅花(べにばな)の産地としても名高く、当時の蜀江錦として知られるものには紅地の錦が多い。その一例に、トゥルファン・アスターナ出土の紅地連珠団花文錦や、わが国法隆寺伝世の紅地に格子蓮華(れんげ)文、花亀甲(きっこう)文、あるいは連珠円内に獅子(しし)と鳳凰(ほうおう)をそれぞれに配したものなどがある。とくにわが国伝世の蜀江錦は、経糸(たていと)で地も文様も織り出した古様な経錦(たてにしき)の織法によるもので、いくぶん堅い文様構成や、限られた色使いに独得の趣(おもむき)がある。

　一方、明(みん)代に織製された蜀江錦は、唐代のそれとまったく趣を異にし、暗緑色を主調とした深い色合いと、大型の幾何学的構成を主体として、その間に大小の窠文(かもん)を配した構築的な文様の雄渾(ゆうこん)さに独得の風格がある。これらのうちのあるものは名物裂(めいぶつぎれ)の一つとして伝えられ、珍重されている。とくに前田家伝来の蜀江錦のなかには、「絲染局繍造局(しせんきょくしゅうぞうきょく)」の墨書銘をもつものがあり、織り幅が204センチメートルほどもあるみごとなものである。

［小笠原小枝］

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