Sashimi - Sashimi

Japanese: 刺身 - さしみ

It is a dish that is mainly made up of raw fish and shellfish. The character sashimi is generally used, but the character sashimi is also old. This character can be seen in the article for August 15, 1448 in the "Yasutomiki." It is said that this character was used for sea bream because the tail was pierced to distinguish it from sea bream. There is also a theory that it was called sashimi because cuts were avoided. The "Wajiga" and "Wakun no Shiori" from the Edo period refer to it as sashimi, and the "Matsuya Hikki" says, "The name sashimi arose from namasu (raw fish), and a method of preparation was established during the time of the Ashikaga Shogun." It is safe to say that the orderly form of sashimi, in which meat is cut into large pieces, was created during the Tozan period, as opposed to the previous namasu (thin slices of fish). "Teijo Zakki" says "Uchimi means sashimi," and in "Shijo School Cooking Book," the characters used are inconsistent, such as "sashimi," "sashimi," and "uchimi." "Teijo Zakki" describes tips on how to cook sashimi and how to eat it, and shows that sashimi occupied an important position in cuisine.

[Tetsunosuke Tada]

Sashimi and spices

From the late Edo period to the present day, it is believed that the true flavor of sashimi can be achieved by using the right garnish and spices. In "Ryori Monogatari" published in 1643 (Kan'ei 20), the author clearly explains how to choose spices, especially under the heading "Sashimi." For reference, some examples are: "Suzuki... blue sea bass and ginger are good," "Pomfret... roasted sake and ginger are good," "Whale... thinly slice, pour hot water over, and use Japanese pepper and miso," "Shark... remove the skin, slice, pour hot water over, and chill well, ginger is good, or boil briefly," "Flathead... remove the skin, thinly slice, ginger, roast sake, and do not stir," "Spanish mackerel... roast sake and ginger." In addition, it is clearly explained that pheasant, duck, etc. should be boiled in water before being used for sashimi. Sashimi is served with "ashirai" (garnish), which can be divided into three categories: ken (side dish), tsuma (side garnish), and yakiso (condiments). "Ken" includes daikon radish, cucumber, udo, and seaweed, while "tsuma" includes perilla leaves, knotweed leaves, and burdock root. Condiments include wasabi and ginger.

[Tetsunosuke Tada]

How to make it

From the late Edo period to the Meiji and Taisho periods, many names for arranging sashimi, such as Tenchijinsanzaimori (Tenchijinsanzai mori) and Yama to Kawa (San to Kawa), were developed, but these are for servings for several people. For individual servings, there are countless varieties, such as Botan (peony), Bara (bara), and Tsubaki (camellia), under the name of "tsukurimi." For "arai," fresh white fish such as flounder, plaice, or sea bream is sliced thinly, washed in cold water, and then arranged. For "hira-zukuri," it is cut into flat pieces. For "hosozukuri," it is cut into thin strips, and for "ito-zukuri," it is cut even thinner. For "yubiki," it is made by quickly pouring boiling water over it. For "matsukawa-zukuri," the flesh of sea bream is removed with the skin still on, covered with a wet cloth and poured over with boiling water, the skin is marbled, and then cooled in water. For "yuburi," the ingredients are cut into slightly larger pieces, dipped one piece at a time between chopsticks in boiling water, and then immediately cooled in cold water. The difference between "dice" and "arare" is in size, with dice being cut to about 2cm square and arare being cut to about 1cm square. "Usuzukuri" is made using pufferfish, flathead, and flounder. When making sashimi, the word "pull" is used instead of "cut."

The word sashimi is also used for plant-based ingredients, such as eggplant sashimi and konjac sashimi. In the early Edo period, "Seisuisho," it is written, "The dish served was myoga sashimi..."

[Tetsunosuke Tada]

[Reference item] | Washing

Tessa (blowfish sashimi)
©Yamaguchi Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Tessa (blowfish sashimi)

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

主として魚貝類などの生食料理。一般に刺身という文字を用いているが、指身の字も古い。『康富記(やすとみき)』文安(ぶんあん)5年（1448）8月15日の記事にもこの文字がみえる。タイならタイと判別できるように尾を刺（指）したからこの文字を用いたという。また、切り身を忌んで刺身と称したという説もある。江戸時代の『和爾雅(わじが)』『和訓栞(わくんのしおり)』には魚軒(さしみ)とあるし、『松屋筆記(まつのやひっき)』には「膾(なます)に刺身という名目おこり、製法も一種出来たるは足利(あしかが)将軍の代よりの事なるべし」とあり、東山時代には、それまでの膾（魚田の細切り）に対し肉を大きく切る刺身の整然とした形式ができたものとみてよかろう。『貞丈雑記(ていじょうざっき)』には「うちみというはさしみの事也(なり)」といっており、『四条流庖丁書(しじょうりゅうほうちょうがき)』では、使用文字が「サシ味」「差味」「ウチミ」などとあって一定していない。『貞丈雑記』には、刺身の調理法についてのくふうや、食べ方の型などが述べられ、刺身が料理のなかで重要な位置を占めていたことがわかる。

［多田鉄之助］

刺身と香辛料

刺身は江戸後期から現代に至るまで、適切なつまと香辛料の使用によって、その真味が得られると考えられている。1643年（寛永20）刊の『料理物語』のなかで、とくに「指身」と見出しをつけて香辛料の選び方を明示している。参考のためその例をあげると、「スズキ……あおず、しょうがずにてよし」、「マナガツオ……いり酒、しょうがずにてもよし」、「クジラ……うすくつくり候て、にえ湯をかけ、さんしょうみそずにてもよし」、「フカ……皮を引き、つくりてにえ湯をかけよくしめ、しょうがずにてよし、さっとゆがきてもよし」、「コチ……皮をはぎ、うすくつくり候、しょうがず、いり酒、たてずにて」、「サワラ……いり酒、しょうがず」。このほか、キジ、カモなどを刺身にするには湯煮して用いることなどが明示してある。刺身には「あしらい」があり、それを分類すると、けん、つま、薬味の三つに分けられる。ダイコン、キュウリ、ウド、海藻などは「けん」、葉ジソ、タデの葉、ボウフウなどが「つま」、薬味はワサビ、ショウガなどである。

［多田鉄之助］

作り方

江戸後期から明治、大正となるにつれて、刺身の盛付けには天地人三才盛り、山と河など数々の盛り方の名称ができているが、これらは何人分かの盛り込みである。銘々盛りとしては、「つくり身」の名でボタン、バラ、ツバキなど数えきれないほどの種類がある。「洗い」はヒラメ、カレイ、タイなど新鮮な白身魚を薄くつくり、冷水で洗って盛り付ける。「平づくり」は平たく切ったつくりである。「細づくり」は細く切ったもので、「糸づくり」はさらに細くつくる。「湯びき」はさっと熱湯をかけてつくる。「松皮づくり」はタイを皮つきのまま身取りし、ぬれぶきんをかぶせて熱湯をかけ、皮に霜降りしてから水で冷やしてつくる。「湯ぶり」はすこし大きく切った材料を沸騰した湯に一切れずつ箸(はし)で挟んで浸し、すぐ冷水にとって冷やしたもの。「賽(さい)の目」と「あられ」は大きさの相違で、賽の目は2センチメートル角、あられは1センチメートル角程度につくる。「薄づくり」はフグ、コチ、ヒラメなどを用いる。なお、刺身をつくる場合には、切るといわずに「引く」といっている。

　植物性材料にも刺身のことばは使われている。ナスの刺身、こんにゃくの刺身などがそれである。江戸初期の『醒酔笑(せいすいしょう)』に「振舞の菜は茗荷(みょうが)のさしみ……」とある。

［多田鉄之助］

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