Brown clothing - Kachie

A type of clothing for the nobility. A top garment of the Sokutai style, this robe was worn by lower-ranking military officers of the Efu. Kachi was originally a woolen fabric, but in Japan it was made of linen and had open armpits. In the Heian period, the body was made in two widths and the sleeves in two widths, but the back hem was shorter for ease of movement. The Kachi costume is slightly different in composition from the Sokutai, and it is made with a thin cord, a crown with a sash, tied hakama, a black lacquered sword, a habaki, and straw sandals or straw sandals. In the Kamakura period, a kariginu style garment with a single body and sleeves was also used, but it did not have sleeve bindings like the kariginu, and instead of an eboshi hat, it was made of a thin silk crown and a sash. The colors of the kimono were navy, indigo, red, etc., and the attendants of the Efu wore indigo kimono with large round patterns (ban-e) printed black, following the style of Bugaku robes. In this case, the right side had a bear ban-e and the left side a lion ban-e. They carried bows and wore kariyanagi, which added a touch of dignity to the procession as summoned costumes.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

公家(くげ)階級の衣服の一種。束帯(そくたい)系の服装の上着で、衛府(えふ)の下級武官が着装する袍(ほう)。褐(かち)とは本来、毛織物のことであるが、日本では麻布を用い、両腋(わき)を縫わずにあけた闕腋(けってき)の袍で、平安時代には身頃(みごろ)を二幅(ふたの)、袖(そで)を二幅に仕立てられたが、行動の便を考えて、後ろの裾(すそ)は短くなっている。褐衣装束は束帯と構成のうえでやや異なり、細纓(さいえい)をつけ、緌(おいかけ)をかけた冠をかぶり、括(くく)り袴(ばかま)をはき、黒漆の太刀をつけ、脛巾(はばき)を巻いて、藁履(わらぐつ)か草鞋(わらじ)をはく。鎌倉時代には身一幅、袖一幅の狩衣(かりぎぬ)形式のものも用いられたが、狩衣のような袖括(そでくく)りは通さず、烏帽子(えぼし)ではなく細纓の冠をかぶり緌をかけた。褐衣の色は紺、縹(はなだ)、赤などで、衛府の随身(ずいじん)は舞楽の袍に倣って縹の褐衣に、大きな丸文（蛮絵(ばんえ)）を黒く摺(す)り、その場合、右方は熊(くま)の蛮絵、左方は獅子(しし)の蛮絵とし、弓を持ち狩胡録(かりやなぐい)を帯びて、召具装束として行列の威儀を華やかした。

［高田倭男］

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