Saburo Matsukata

Mountaineer. The thirteenth son of Matsukata Masayoshi, a Meiji state leader. He graduated from Kyoto Imperial University after graduating from Gakushuin Junior and Senior High School. He became a journalist and served as executive director of Kyodo News. He began mountaineering as a student, and in 1921 (Taisho 10), he was the first to summit Mt. Tsubakuro on skis in the harsh winter, and in 1922, the first to summit Mt. Yari in the harsh winter. From 1925, he made numerous climbs in the Swiss Alps, and was the first to successfully climb the Hörnli Ridge of the Eiger. He led the mountaineering world with good sense, and was a great contributor to the prosperity of the Japanese mountaineering world. He was the fifth (1946-48) and tenth (1962-68) president of the Japan Alpine Club, an honorary member in 1968 (Showa 43), and a member of the British Alpine Club. In 1970, as the leader of the Everest expedition, he led the first Japanese team to successfully reach the summit, led by members Teruo Matsuura and Naomi Uemura. He has written books such as "Alps Chronicle," "Alps and People," and "Distant and Near," as well as many translations.

[Tokuhisa Kyuuou]

"The Alps and People" (1976, Tsukiji Shokan)

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

登山家。明治の元勲松方正義(まさよし)の十三男。学習院の中等科、高等科を経て京都帝国大学卒業。ジャーナリストの道を歩み、共同通信社専務理事を務めた。学生時代から登山を始め、1921年（大正10）厳冬期燕岳(つばくろだけ)スキー初登頂、22年厳冬期槍ヶ岳(やりがたけ)初登頂。25年からスイス・アルプスで数多くの登山を行いアイガーのヘルンリ稜(りょう)初登攀(とうはん)に成功した。良識をもって登山界をリードし、日本の登山界の隆盛を築いた功労者。第5代（1946～48）、第10代（1962～68）日本山岳会会長、68年（昭和43）名誉会員、イギリス山岳会会員。70年エベレスト登山隊隊長として、松浦輝夫(てるお)、植村直己(なおみ)の両隊員による日本隊初の登頂を成功させた。『アルプス記』『アルプスと人』『遠き近き』などの著書や多くの訳書がある。

［徳久球雄］

『『アルプスと人』（1976・築地書館）』

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