Haori - Haori

A type of Japanese clothing worn over a long kimono. It is used for protection from the cold, as formal attire, and as a stylish item.

The current shape of haori is such that the length is from below the waist to above the knee. The front body is folded inside out, and the width of the front body is cut in a straight line from the collar shoulder opening to the hem, where the collar is attached. The front hem has a downward slope. When worn, the collar is folded in half outwards around the collar shoulders, and the front body is turned inside out with the collar width unchanged. Men's haori have the entire length of the sleeves attached, so the top of the gusset is a thin, pointed triangle. Women's haori have a wide opening and a body opening, and the top of the gusset is about 2 centimeters long and a trapezoidal shape with a flared hem. A piece of breast cloth is sewn to the chest part where the collar is attached, and a haori string is attached to it and tied on both sides. The length of a haori is influenced by fashion, but according to current standards, a medium haori is about half the height of a person. Hon-haori are made 3 cm longer than this, and cha-haori are about 10 cm shorter than naka-haori. Family crests are made to the full haori length, while fashionable clothes, street wear, and everyday wear are made shorter. Traditionally, haori were made from a single bolt of fabric, but after World War II, both the sleeve length and body length became shorter, and hajakumono (9.1 to 9.6 meters) became the norm. Cha-haori are made from half a bolt of fabric (around 5.5 meters). The ensemble fabric for the haori and kimono is woven to a length of around 20 meters.

Looking at the types of haori by purpose, for men, black habutae (hitoe is plain ro) dyed haori with five crests is used for formal attire, while plain tsumugi or oshima (hitoe is ro or sha) haori with three crests or one sewn crest is used for semi-formal attire. Hakama is worn for both formal and semi-formal attire. For casual wear, oshima or tsumugi are used, made from the same material as the long gi. Navy blue, brown, and iron are the most common colors, and they are often paired with the long gi. For everyday wear, ensembles of cotton and wool are used. For women, haori with three black dyed crests, one crest, or one sewn crest (lined in crepe, monrinzu, hitoe in monsha or ro crepe) are casual attire for celebrations and condolences, and can be used for both if the ground pattern is suitable for either. A plain-colored haori with one crest (the fabric is the same as the black montsuki) or a black picture haori with a classic pattern (also called picture haori for short) with one crest is casual attire for celebrations. For women, a montsuki with an obi is formal attire, while a haori is strictly casual attire. A colored haori has a flashy atmosphere, and for stylish wear or city wear, shibori, komon, batik, sarasa, etc. are used. For everyday wear, cotton (striped, kasuri) and wool are used. Haori are worn according to the season - lined haori in winter and hitoe haori in summer, but recently wool hitoe haori are also worn in winter. For children, there is a four-piece haori for five-year-old boys, which is worn as a celebratory outfit, made of black habutae dyed with five crests and a noshime pattern. A wool kimono with a matching haori is often worn on New Year's Day and other occasions. A chanchanko is a sleeveless haori with a single layer, padded with cotton or lined. Sleeveless haori are used to keep warm.

A lined haori should have a smooth lining. Habutae, twill or synthetic fibers are used for the lining, while Western linings are used for the shoulder slip of hitoe. Solid colors, gradations, small patterns and stripes are available. Men's haori linings include gakuura, which are luxurious with illustrated patterns. It is important that the color, pattern and fabric of the haori gi and obi are in harmony. It is also good to consider harmony with accessories such as the haori string, obi-jime and obi-age.

There are theories about the origin of the haori, including that it originated from the hems of kosode (short sleeved kimono), or from the hems of dofuku (traditional Japanese ceremonial clothing) worn to protect against dust, or from being worn without a sash. There is also a theory that it originated from jittoku (a traditional Japanese garment worn by a samurai), dofuku (traditional Japanese clothing worn by a samurai), and dofuku (traditional Japanese clothing worn by a samurai), and was influenced by the clothing of Westerners who came to Japan on Nanban ships in the late 16th century.

The first written reference to the Gusoku Haori is in the Muromachi Tono Nikki (Diary of the Lady of the Muromachi Period) from the Eiroku period (1558-1570). This is a jinbaori worn over armour, and was favoured by military commanders. The high-ranking samurai of the time began to wear the gi to protect themselves from the cold, with padded or lined lining, slightly shorter than kosode, and a tweezers-style hem. It has a collar, and the lining of the wide collar is made of the same fabric or decorative dyed fabric, with a triangular woven cloth and quilted cord at the position where the lining of the collar is attached. There is also a split back and openings at the sides of the hem. The collar was worn folded inwards or outwards at the shoulders, but was sometimes left standing. Later, the collar was removed, and the collar was attached vertically to the hem of the body without a collar seat. Also, kosode with a hem appeared, with a foldover front and wide sides like a gusset. The kosode with a hem can be seen in those worn by Uesugi Kenshin, and the torso worn by Uesugi retainer Naoe Kanetsugu is similar to later haori (the komon haori attributed to Tokugawa Ieyasu at Nikko Toshogu Shrine is similar to this). Sleeve styles changed from sleeveless to narrow, wide, square, and round, and by the Tensho period (1573-1592) they were worn as innerwear by tea masters and doctors, and it was not until the early Edo period that they spread to townspeople.

In the Genroku period (1688-1704), the sleeves were long and the length was short, imitating the style of Edo Ginza people who frequented the brothels, and by the Kyoho period (1716-1736), this strange style was changed. Around the Genbun period (1736-1741), influenced by the length of the haori worn by Joruri Tayu (playing chanters), a long kimono with a full length called Bunkin style became popular. In this way, the length of the sleeves and the length of the haori continued to change until the end of the Edo period. The formal crest on the haori was based on the suou, omon, and the samurai's ten virtues, and five crests on the back, sleeves, and chest were the official design, with three crests on the back and sleeves and one crest on the back being used as an abbreviation. Since the Kyoho era, black crested haori coats were considered formal attire, but peasants were prohibited from wearing them, except for village headmen and village headmen. Samurai haori and hakama were considered second only to kamishimo (traditional Japanese formal attire), but after kamishimo was abolished in the Meiji era, this has remained the formal attire for men in general to this day.

Haori for women first appeared during the Horeki era (1751-1764) when they were worn by geisha in Fukagawa, Edo, and they were called haori geisha, but it was not until the Meiji era that they became commonly worn.

The following are some unique styles. (1) Jinbaori: This style originated in the Muromachi period and was also called gusoku haori because samurai wore it over their armor in the battlefield. It comes in a variety of lengths and has sleeves or not. (2) Sleeveless haori: This sleeveless style is worn over the outer garment and originated in the Muromachi period. The longer styles were called bussaki and developed into jinbaori. It became popular among commoners as jinbei haori and jinbei haori to protect against the cold. (3) Bussaki haori: This style is also called sewari haori. It has a back seam that is sewn open from the waist down, making it convenient for carrying a sword or riding a horse. It has been seen since the Momoyama period. (4) Bat haori: This style has long sleeves and is short, so it is named after the appearance of a bat with its wings spread. It became popular among young samurai around the Kan'ei and Shoho periods (1624-1648). [5] Leather Haori Made from tanned leather, it was originally used to keep warm, but after the Great Fire of Meireki (1657) it came to be used as firefighting attire. [6] Fire Haori A haori for firefighting attire, made from leather, woolen cloth, and a backboard. Some also come with a breastplate and a belt. [7] Sansai Haori A tsutsumi-sleeved uchire haori invented by Hosokawa Sansai, worn by Imperial troops and Shogunate soldiers at the end of the Edo period.

[Kazuko Okano]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

長着の上に着る和服の一種。防寒、礼服、おしゃれなどを目的として用いられる。

　現在の羽織の形は、丈は腰の下から膝(ひざ)の上くらい。表身頃(みごろ)は裏に折り返し、前身頃の幅を、衿(えり)肩あきから裾(すそ)までまっすぐに切り落としたところに衿をつける。前裾には前下がりがつく。着用のとき、衿肩回りで、衿を外側に二つ折りにし、前身頃では衿幅をそのまま表に返す。男物は袖丈全部を袖付けにするため、襠(まち)の上部は細くとがった三角形である。女物は振り八つ口、身八つ口があき、襠の上部は2センチメートルくらいで裾広がりの台形である。衿付けの胸の部分に乳(ち)布を縫い付け、それに羽織紐(ひも)をつけて左右を結び留める。羽織の丈は流行により左右されるが、現在の標準によると、中羽織は身長の2分の1ぐらいである。本羽織はこれに3センチメートル加えたものにし、茶羽織は中羽織より10センチメートルほど短くする。紋付類は本羽織丈とし、しゃれ着や街着、普段着は短くする。羽織の用布は従来一反物を用いて本羽織に仕立てたが、第二次世界大戦後は、袖丈、身丈ともに短くなり、羽尺物(はじゃくもの)（9.1メートルから9.6メートル）が普通となった。茶羽織は半反（5.5メートル内外）でつくる。羽織と着物のアンサンブル地は20メートル内外に織られている。

　羽織の種類を用途別にみると、男子の場合、黒羽二重(はぶたえ)（単(ひとえ)は平絽(ひらろ)）染抜五つ紋付羽織は礼装、無地の紬(つむぎ)やお召（単は絽、紗(しゃ)）に三つ紋または縫いの一つ紋をつけた羽織は略礼装に用いる。礼装、略礼装ともに袴(はかま)を着ける。しゃれ着にはお召、紬など長着と同じ材質のものを用いる。色は紺、茶、鉄色が一般的で、長着と対(つい)にすることが多い。日常着には木綿、ウールのアンサンブルなど。女子の場合は、黒染抜三つ紋、一つ紋、または一つ紋の縫い紋の羽織（袷(あわせ)は縮緬(ちりめん)、紋綸子(もんりんず)、単は紋紗、絽縮緬）は慶弔を表す略装となり、地紋にどちらにも向くものを選べば両用となる。一つ紋の色無地（生地(きじ)は黒紋付に同じ）や、古典的な柄の黒絵羽羽織（略して絵羽織ともいう）に一つ紋をつければ慶事の略装となる。女子は帯付きの紋付が礼装で、羽織はあくまでも略装である。色絵羽羽織は華やかな雰囲気があり、しゃれ着、街着には絞り、小紋、ろうけつ、更紗(さらさ)などを用いる。日常着は木綿（縞(しま)、絣(かすり)）、ウールなど。羽織は季節により冬は袷羽織、夏は単羽織と着分けるが、最近はウールの単羽織が冬にも用いられる。子供用は祝い着として、5歳男児の黒羽二重染抜五つ紋付熨斗目(のしめ)模様の四つ身羽織がある。ウールの着物に対の羽織は、正月などによく着られる。ちゃんちゃんこは、一つ身袖なし羽織で、綿入れや袷仕立てにする。袖なし羽織は防寒用に用いられる。

　袷羽織には滑りのよい羽裏をつける。羽裏地は羽二重や綸子、化合繊などを用い、単の肩すべりには、洋服用裏地なども用いる。色柄は無地、ぼかし、小紋、縞などを選ぶ。男の羽織裏には額裏(がくうら)といって、絵羽柄にしたぜいたくなものもある。羽織は、長着や帯の色、柄、生地との調和がとれていることがたいせつである。羽織紐、帯締、帯揚などの小物との調和にも気を配るとよい。

　羽織の起源については、小袖(こそで)の裾端(すそはし)や、塵(ちり)よけ用の道服(どうふく)の裾を短く端折(はお)り着たこと、帯を締めないで放り着たことなどからおこったとの説がある。また、十徳(じっとく)、道服、胴服(どうふく)などに由来し、16世紀後半に南蛮船で渡来した西欧人の服装の影響を受けたという説もある。

　文献としては永禄(えいろく)年間（1558～1570）の『室町殿日記』に具足(ぐそく)羽織うんぬんとあるのが最初である。これは鎧(よろい)の上から着た陣羽織で、武将が好んで用いた。当時の高級武士たちが防寒用に着始めた胴服は綿入れや袷で、身丈は小袖よりやや短く、裾は毛抜き仕立てであった。衽(おくみ)がつき、広衿の裏は共布や装飾的な染織物がつけられ、裏衿付けの位置には、三角形の乳布と絎(く)け紐がついている。また背割、裾脇(すそわき)あけがみられる。衿は衿肩のところで内側または外側に折って着たが、立てたままのこともあった。その後、衽が除かれ、衿下をつけず、身頃の裾まで垂直に衿がつけられた。また前下がりがつき、襠のように脇が広がっているものも現れた。衽付きの小袖形態は、上杉謙信所用のものにみられ、上杉家の家臣直江兼続(かねつぐ)の胴服は後世の羽織に近い（日光東照宮の伝徳川家康小紋羽織はこれに似ている）。袖形は袖のないもの、袖幅の狭いもの、広袖、角袖、丸袖と変化し、天正(てんしょう)（1573～1592）のころには茶人、医者の間で内着として着られ、町人にも及んだのは江戸初期からである。

　元禄(げんろく)時代（1688～1704）には、遊廓(ゆうかく)に通う江戸銀座の人々の風をまねて、袖が長く、丈の短いものとなり、享保(きょうほう)（1716～1736）のころにはこの異様な風体が改まった。元文(げんぶん)（1736～1741）ごろには浄瑠璃太夫(じょうるりだゆう)の羽織丈の影響を受けて、文金(ぶんきん)風という長着と対丈のものが流行した。このように袖・丈の長短は、江戸末期まで変化が繰り返された。羽織の定紋は素襖(すおう)、大紋、武士の十徳の流れを受け、背、袖、胸の五つ紋を正式とし、略して背、袖の三つ紋、背の一つ紋がある。享保以来、黒地紋付羽織が礼装とされたが、庄屋(しょうや)、名主を除き、百姓は着用を禁じられた。武士の羽織袴は裃(かみしも)に次ぐものとされたが、明治になり裃が廃止されたのち、これが男子一般の礼装として今日に至っている。

　女子の羽織は宝暦(ほうれき)（1751～1764）のころ、江戸・深川の芸者が着用したことに始まり、羽織芸者などとよばれたが、一般に用いるようになったのは、明治になってからである。

　形態上から特殊なものを次にあげる。〔1〕陣羽織　室町時代よりおこり、武士が陣中で具足の上に着たので具足羽織ともいわれる。袖の有無、丈の長短はさまざまである。〔2〕袖なし羽織　表衣の上に着る袖のないもので、室町時代に発生し、丈の長いものは打裂(ぶっさき)形式で陣羽織に発展した。庶民の間では陣兵羽織、甚兵衛羽織として防寒用に普及した。〔3〕打裂羽織　背割羽織ともいう。帯刀や乗馬に都合がよいように、背縫いの腰から下を縫いあけたもので、桃山時代からみられる。〔4〕蝙蝠(こうもり)羽織　袖が長く、丈の短いもので、コウモリが羽を広げたようにみえるため、この名がある。寛永(かんえい)・正保(しょうほう)（1624～1648）ごろ武家若衆に流行した。〔5〕革羽織　なめし革でつくったもので防寒用であったが、明暦(めいれき)の大火（1657）のころより火事装束に用いられた。〔6〕火事羽織　火事装束用の羽織で、革、羅紗(らしゃ)、羅背板(らせいた)などでつくる。胸当て、当(あ)て帯(おび)をつけたものもある。〔7〕三斎羽織　細川三斎が考案した筒袖の打裂羽織で、幕末に官軍、幕府の兵士が着用した。

［岡野和子］

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