Japanese Alps

Japanese: 日本アルプス - にほんあるぷす

A general term for the Hida Mountains (Northern Alps), Kiso Mountains (Central Alps), and Akaishi Mountains (Southern Alps), which run parallel to each other from north to south in the Chubu region of Honshu. This mountain range is the only one in the Japanese archipelago with a series of mountains over 3,000 meters high, and is called the roof of the Japanese archipelago. It is an area with many high mountains and deep valleys, where a unique mountain village culture has developed since ancient times, and is also known as a typical mountain range for serious mountain climbing and skiing.

[Tokuhisa Kyuuou]

Origin of the name

The name "Japanese Alps" was given to the area because of its alpine landscape with many rocky peaks and snowy valleys similar to those of the European Alps. The first person to use the term was the British metallurgist William Gowland (1842-1922). He climbed the mountains of the Hida Mountains, including Mt. Tateyama and Mt. Yarigatake (3,180 meters), and wrote in his book "Travelers' Guide to Central and Northern Japan" (1881), edited by Ernest Satow, that "these mountains should be called the Japanese Alps." It was British missionary and father of modern mountaineering in Japan, W. Weston, who gave the Japanese Alps the general name for the three mountain ranges of Hida, Kiso, and Akaishi. He introduced the beauty of the mountains in his book "The Japanese Alps: Mountaineering and Exploration," published in London in 1896. In addition, mountaineer Usui Kojima, who was influenced by Weston, used the names Northern Alps, Central Alps, and Southern Alps in his book "The Japanese Alps" (4 volumes), and used the name Japanese Alps as a general term for them. Note that the name Alps is often given to mountain ranges other than the central mountain region that include a series of steep mountains.

[Tokuhisa Kyuuou]

Northern Alps

The Northern Alps stretch across three prefectures, Nagano, Toyama, and Gifu, stretching about 100 kilometers from north to south and 35 kilometers from east to west. There is an elevation difference of more than 2,000 meters above the Matsumoto Basin, and several mountain ridges are formed by the Takase River, Azusa River, Kurobe River, Joganji River, and the upstream of the Jinzu River, the Gamata River. The highest main ridge is the Yari-Hotaka mountain range, sandwiched between the Azusa River and the Gamata River. It is a sharp rock ridge centered on Mt. Yari and Mt. Okuhotaka (3,190 meters), and including Kamikochi, it is a region that can be said to be the symbol of the Japanese Alps. To the north of the Yari-Hotaka mountain range are the Tateyama mountain range, centered on Mt. Tateyama (Mt. Onanji, 3,015 meters), Mt. Tsurugidake (2,999 meters), and Mt. Yakushi (2,926 meters), and the Ushiro Tateyama mountain range, centered on Mt. Shiroumadake (2,932 meters) and Mt. Kashimayarigatake (2,889 meters). The Norikura volcanic belt, running parallel to the Hida mountain range, is home to volcanoes such as Mt. Yakedake (2,455 meters), Mt. Norikura (3,026 meters), and Ontake (Kiso Ontake, 3,067 meters). The peaks of the Northern Alps are home to glacial and periglacial landforms such as cirques, U-shaped valleys, and tectonic earth, such as the Yamazaki Cirque (a cirque, a national natural monument) on Mt. Tateyama, the Yakushidake Cirque Group (a special natural monument), and Japan's largest Karasawa Cirque on Mt. Karasawa. Many areas retain perennial snow, such as the large snowfields of Mt. Shirouma. The rivers that bound the mountain ranges also have deep gorges, as exemplified by Kurobe Gorge (a special place of scenic beauty and natural monument), which are one of the characteristic landscapes of the Northern Alps. On the other hand, the area is dominated by communities of stone pine trees and subalpine coniferous forests, presenting a truly alpine landscape, and most of the Northern Alps have been designated as the Chubu Sangaku National Park.

[Tokuhisa Kyuuou]

Central Alps

The Central Alps straddles Nagano and Gifu prefectures, and is a mountainous region bounded by the Tenryu River to the east and the Kiso River to the west. It stretches 70 kilometers north to south and 20 kilometers east to west, but if we limit it to the high mountain area over 2,500 meters, it is an area of more than 20 kilometers, centered on the highest peak, Komagatake (2,956 meters), Chausuyama (2,658 meters) to the north, and Kosumoyama (2,614 meters) to the south. In addition to Komagatake, the main mountains include Utsugidake (2,864 meters) and Minami-Komagatake (2,841 meters), and the cirque of Senjojiki and Nougaike on Komagatake are typical glacial landforms. The Kiso Mountains were formed by several intermittent uplifts, and the mountainside is steep. The main part is the Central Alps Prefectural Natural Park in Nagano Prefecture.

[Tokuhisa Kyuuou]

Southern Alps

The Southern Alps is a vast mountain range that stretches 70km north to south and 50km east to west between the Fuji River and the Tenryu River, straddling Yamanashi, Nagano and Shizuoka prefectures. The peaks are the focus of the Southern Alps National Park, but it is the least developed of the three Alps regions, and many virgin forest areas remain. The highest peak is Kitadake (3,193m) of Mt. Shirane, Japan's second highest peak, and other peaks include Ainotake (3,190m), Notoritake (3,051m) and Akaishidake (3,121m), and like the Northern Alps, there are many high peaks in the 3,000m class. There are relatively few alpine rock ridges or snowy valleys, but there are cirque topography near Mt. Senjo, Mt. Akaishi and Mt. Arakawa, and double and asymmetrical ridges are developed in each region.

[Tokuhisa Kyuuou]

Vegetation

The mountainside between 1,800 and 2,500 meters above sea level is dominated by coniferous high tree forests such as Abies veitchii, Abies mariesii, Picea tora, and Tsuga diversifolia, while above 2,500 meters, low forests of Pinus pumila are dominant. Looking at the vegetation of the coniferous high tree forest (abies veitchii zone), there are many plants common to the mountains of Honshu and Shikoku, but the area centered on the northern part of the Southern Alps is the center of the coniferous high tree forest zone in Honshu, with a particularly large number of endemic species such as Korean pine, Iramyuri, Himematsuhada, Misty lily of the valley, and Seribashiogama. In addition, in the Northern Alps near the Sea of Japan, heavy snowfall causes poor development of coniferous forests and a poor flora. Conifers do not grow on the slopes in the coniferous forest belt where avalanches are common, and instead the slopes are covered with shrubs such as birch and alder, as well as avalanche grasslands with many flowers such as mountain buttercup, white mountain bellflower, and mountain cnidium.

The coniferous shrub zone (pine zone) corresponds to the subalpine zone of the European Alps and is densely populated with pine communities. The pine communities are thought to be the same as those in eastern Siberia. Dwarf shrubs and low-growing herbaceous communities can be seen in areas with a lot of snow drifts, ridges that are particularly exposed to strong winds, and gravel ground. At altitudes of 3,000 meters or more above sea level, communities mainly consisting of dwarf shrubs and plants of the grass and sedge families occupy a large area. This is the alpine zone in the strict sense (carex zone). Plants in the alpine zone are closely related to the polar regions and temperate alpine areas of the Northern Hemisphere, but plants in snow fields have many in common with the North Pacific coast, especially the coastal areas of Alaska.

[Tatsuyuki Ohba]

Fauna

The Japanese Alps are a mountainous region where human activity is relatively low, and as such, they are home to over 30 species of mammals and over 200 species of birds. In recent years, development has reduced the habitats of large mammals, and their populations are declining. Large mammals that are of interest throughout the region include the Japanese macaque, the Japanese serow, the Asiatic black bear, and the Echigo hare, of which the Japanese serow has been protected as a special natural monument by the country since 1955 (Showa 30). As for birds, the rock larks, house martens, kestrels, and blue-and-white flycatchers live in the subalpine zone and above. Migratory birds that can be seen in the alpine zone include the rock skylark, house martin, kestrel, and blue-and-white flycatcher. Insects include the alpine butterflies Euonymus moniliforme, Euonymus nigricans, Euonymus nebulosus, Euonymus nigricans, and Euonymus moniliforme, and there are many species in common with Hokkaido and Siberia. Aquatic insects include the snowflake stonefly and the Towada stonefly, which are said to be relics of the Ice Age.

[Akio Nizuma]

Mountaineering History

As it is one of Japan's most representative mountainous regions, the history of mountaineering in the Japanese Alps can be said to be the history of mountaineering in Japan itself. In the past, people climbed mountains to gather grass and hunt, but with the establishment of Shugendo in the Heian period, mountains began to be climbed as objects of worship. Prior to that, Mt. Tateyama is said to have been opened in the Nara period, and the head of a shakujo (a Buddhist staff) and the tip of a spear thought to date from the late Nara period to the early Heian period have been discovered on the summit of Mt. Tsurugidake. Mt. Tateyama became a training center for Shugendo in the Heian period, and religious climbing became popular after the Northern and Southern Courts. In the Edo period, Mt. Tateyama and the Okuyama of Kurobe were patrolled by the Okuyama Patrol Officers of the Kaga Domain to patrol the forests and to defend the border. Harinoki Pass, a saddle at Mt. Harinoki (2,821 meters) in the Ushiro-Tateyama mountain range, is said to have been an important route connecting Etchu and Shinano. It is believed that the climbing of Mt. Kisokoma in the Central Alps for religious purposes began in the middle of the Sengoku period. From the end of the 17th century to the end of the 18th century, many mountains were climbed, including Mt. Shirouma, Mt. Ariake, and Mt. Ontake. Mt. Yari was climbed in 1828 (Bunsei 11) by the monk Banryu Shonin, and a statue of Shaka Bodhisattva was placed on the summit in 1833 (Tenpo 4).

In 1878 (Meiji 11), Gowland climbed Mt. Yari, and Ernest Sato climbed Mt. Harinoki Pass and Mt. Tateyama. Weston came to Japan in 1888 and climbed Mt. Yari, Mt. Akaishi, Mt. Shirouma, Mt. Ontake, and other peaks. This marked the beginning of modern mountaineering in Japan. At Weston's urging, Kojima Usui and others founded the Japan Alpine Club, Japan's first mountaineering club. Geographer Shiga Shigetaka contributed an article to the Japanese Alpine Journal (1906) stating, "You should climb the Japanese Alps," and further wrote, "The Japanese Alps are a huge mountain range that stretches from the border between Echigo and Etchu, between Hida and Shinano, and crouches in the center of the main island of Japan. It stretches 35 ri north to south and 20 ri east to west, and is a veritable deep mountain valley in Japan, nestled between a belt of granite and a belt of gneiss." Issue 3 of the first year of the Japanese Alpine Club's journal, Sangaku, published in 1906 (Meiji 39), was titled "The Japanese Alps" and recommended climbing in the Japanese Alps. In this way, modern mountaineering in Japan began mainly in the Japanese Alps, and in addition to climbing by botanists and researchers of glacial ruins, climbing was also carried out by the Land Survey Department of the General Staff for surveying and setting triangulation points. Full-scale mountaineering as a sport was also carried out, and by the end of the Meiji period, most of the main mountains in the Japanese Alps had been conquered, and climbing on variation routes became more popular. In the 1920s, mountaineering in the snow season began to be carried out mainly by university mountaineering clubs, and the Keio University mountaineering club succeeded in reaching the summit of Mt. Yari in 1922 (Taisho 11) and Mt. Tsurugi in 1926 during the snow season. Rock climbing was also popular, and climbing on variation routes continued until before World War II. However, during this time, there were many accidents caused by avalanches, such as the Waseda University battalion's Harinoki Valley in 1927 and the East University battalion's Tsurugisawa in 1930. Mountain huts, which previously only existed for religious climbers at Murodo on Mt. Tateyama, were built all over the Northern Alps as the number of climbers increased.

After the Second World War, with the increase in leisure time, mountaineering rapidly became more popular, inspired by the success of the Japan Alpine Club's ascent of Mt. Manaslu. Tourism development also progressed, and in the Northern Alps, the opening of the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route made it possible to climb to Murodo at 2,550 meters without walking, and to reach the 3,000 meter peak in 1-2 hours. On Mt. Norikura, the road for corona observation was repaired, and a motorway was opened up to nearly 2,800 meters, and a ropeway was installed from Shinhotaka Onsen in Gifu Prefecture to just below the ridge of Mt. Nishihotaka. In addition, bus routes were extended to high altitudes on mountains with many climbers, including Mt. Hakuba. A ropeway was built from Komagane to Senjojiki Cirque on Mt. Komagatake in the Central Alps. The Southern Alps have not seen the same development as the Northern and Central Alps, but there has been development, such as the construction of a forest road to Hirogawara. Ski resorts have been developed, and the Japanese Alps, once a mecca for mountain climbing, have been transformed into a tourist destination, welcoming many tourist climbers. However, from the perspective of nature conservation, the progress of development and the increase in climbers has caused many problems, such as the decline of high moors, the decline of animals such as ptarmigan and alpine plants, and water pollution and waste disposal caused by waste from mountain huts. Currently, there is an urgent need to address the environmental issues of mountain huts, which have lagged behind those in the European Alps, and efforts are being made to switch to new toilet and waste disposal methods, and to use solar and wind power for electricity, etc.

[Tokuhisa Kyuuou]

"The Famous Peaks of the Japanese Alps" by Shirahata Shiro (1982, Yama-to-Keikoku-sha)" ▽ "The History of Mountaineering in Japan, New Edition" by Yamazaki Yasuji (1986, Hakusuisha)" ▽ "The Raicho: Living in the Japanese Alps" by Mizukoshi Takeshi (1991, Heibonsha)" ▽ "Illustrated Guide to the Plants of the Japanese Alps" by Oba Tatsuyuki and Takahashi Hideo (1999, Yasaka Shobo)" ▽ "A Journey to the 100 Famous Mountains of the Japanese Alps" by Fukada Kyuya (2000, Kawade Shobo Shinsha)" ▽ "The Discovery of the Japanese Alps: Exchanges with Western Culture" by Shoda Motoo (2001, Meikeido)" ▽ "Why Do We Love Mountains? A Document of the 70-Year History of Mountaineering in the Japanese Alps" by Yasukawa Shigeo (Shogakukan Bunko)

Mount Yari
One of the main peaks of the Japanese Alps, this mountain (3,180m above sea level) is representative of the Northern Alps. The summit, left behind by glacial erosion, has a unique shape like the tip of a spear, and is also known as the "Matterhorn of Japan." The photo shows the view from Tengu Pond on the southeastern foot of the mountain. It is part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park. Omachi City, Nagano Prefecture / Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture © Shinshu-Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Mount Yari

Mount Hotaka
Okuhotakadake is the highest peak in the Northern Alps and is the center of the Hotaka Mountains. At 3,190m above sea level, it is the third highest peak in Japan after Mount Fuji (3,776m) and Mount Kita (3,192m). Many climbers aim to reach the summit during the summer season. Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture / Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture ©Shogakukan ">

Mount Hotaka

The Three Shirouma Mountains (Mt. Shirouma, Mt. Shakushi, and Mt. Yari)
It is located on the border between Nagano and Toyama prefectures, at the northern end of the Northern Alps mountain range. From Mt. Shirouma to the south are Mt. Shakushi and Mt. Yari. It is part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park. The photo shows the view from Hakuba Ohashi Bridge in Hakuba Village, with Mt. Shirouma (2,932m above sea level), Mt. Shakushi (2,812m), and Mt. Yari (2,903m) from the right. In the foreground is the Matsukawa River. Hakuba Village, Kitaazumi District, Nagano Prefecture / Kurobe City, Toyama Prefecture, Asahi Town, Shimoniikawa District © Shinshu, Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

The Three Shirouma Mountains (Mt. Shirouma, Mt. Shakushi, and Mt. Yari)

Hakuba Great Snow Valley
A snowfield on the eastern slope of Mt. Shirouma. It is about 3.5 km long and has an elevation difference of about 600 m. It is one of the three major snowfields in Japan and is the main route for climbing Mt. Shirouma. The surrounding area is also a treasure trove of alpine plants, and in summer the area around Negidaira is decorated with a variety of flowers. It is part of Chubu Sangaku National Park. Hakuba Village, Kitaazumi District, Nagano Prefecture © Shinshu Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Hakuba Great Snow Valley

Mount Yake
An active volcano rising 2,455m above sea level to the west of Kamikochi. It is also called Mt. Iou and is also known as the "incense burner of the Alps." It is located on the border between Nagano and Gifu prefectures and belongs to the Chubu Sangaku National Park. In the foreground of the photo is Taisho Pond. Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture / Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture © Shinshu-Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Mount Yake

Mount Norikura
A general term for the range of mountains at the southernmost tip of the Northern Alps. The 3,000m-class mountains stretch for 5km, with the highest peak, Kengamine, at 3,026m above sea level. Since ancient times, it has been the subject of mountain worship and was a training ground for mountain ascetics. It is part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park. The photo shows the view from Norikura Highlands, with Kengamine in the center and Takamagahara to the left. Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture / Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture © Shinshu-Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Mount Norikura

Mount Ontake
A stratovolcano also known as "Kiso Ontake." It is 3,067 meters above sea level. It is a symbol of the Kiso Valley and has been known as a sacred mountain since ancient times, and is still worshipped by many people. The photo shows the view from Kaida Plateau. Kiso Town, Kiso County, Nagano Prefecture, Otaki Village / Gero City, Gifu Prefecture © Shinshu-Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Mount Ontake

Azusa River and Kappa Bridge
Kappabashi Bridge is a wooden suspension bridge over the Azusa River and is one of the symbols of Kamikochi. The surrounding area is known as Kamikochi Ginza, and is crowded with hikers and tourists in the summer. It is a scenic spot where you can see the Hotaka mountain range right before your eyes. Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture ©Shogakukan ">

Azusa River and Kappa Bridge

Kurobe Gorge
The gorge upstream from Unazuki Onsen on the Kurobe River. Known as the deepest gorge in Japan, the river basin is included in the Chubu Sangaku National Park. The Kurobe Gorge Railway, which runs between Unazuki and Keyakidaira, is an important means of transportation for Kurobe tourism. The photo shows Shin-Yamabiko Bridge near Unazuki Onsen. Kurobe City, Toyama Prefecture and Tateyama Town, Nakaniikawa District © Toyama Tourism Federation

Kurobe Gorge

Komagatake (Kiso Komagatake)
The main peak of the Kiso Mountains. It is 2,956 meters above sea level. It is also called Kisokoma. It has been the subject of mountain worship since ancient times, and the inner shrine of Komagatake Shrine is enshrined on the summit. The photo shows the view from the southeast. Agematsu Town, Kiso Town, Kiso District, Nagano Prefecture, Miyata Village, Kamiina District © Shinshu Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Komagatake (Kiso Komagatake)

Senjojiki Cirque
A typical glacial landform that spreads across the southeastern face of Mt. Hoken, a branch peak of Mt. Kisokoma. Known as a treasure trove of alpine plants, the area is covered with a variety of flowers in summer. There are walking trails, and many people visit for mountain climbing and trekking. Komagane City, Nagano Prefecture © Shinshu-Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Senjojiki Cirque

Mount Kita
Located in the Akaishi Mountains, this is the highest peak in the Southern Alps. With an elevation of 3,193m, it is the second highest peak in Japan after Mount Fuji. Together with Mount Ainotake and Mount Notori, it is also known as the Shirane Sanzan or Mount Shirane. It is part of the Southern Alps National Park. The photo shows the view from near Mount Kannon, one of the Houou Sanzan mountains. Southern Alps City, Yamanashi Prefecture © Yamanashi Tourism Organization ">

Mount Kita

Mt. Aino
Located in the northern Akaishi Mountains, this is the fourth highest peak in Japan (3,190m above sea level). Together with Kitadake in the north and Notori-dake in the south, it is called the Shirane Sanzan (Mt. Shirane). It is known for its majestic mountain shape and cirques. It is part of the Minami-Alps National Park. Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture / Minami-Alps City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Hayakawa Town, Minamikoma District ©Yamanashi Tourism Organization ">

Mt. Aino

Mt. Notori
A mountain in the northern part of the Akaishi Mountains. It is 3051m above sea level. It is part of the Southern Alps National Park and, together with Kita-dake and Aino-dake, it is one of the Shirane Sanzan (Shiranesan). The photo shows the view from the Southern Alps forest road that runs along the east side of Notori-dake. Hayakawa-cho, Minamikoma-gun, Yamanashi Prefecture / Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture © Yamanashi Tourism Organization

Mt. Notori

Mount Akaishi
View from the north. Southern Alps National Park area. Oshika Village, Shimoina District, Nagano Prefecture / Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture ©Ministry of the Environment ">

Mount Akaishi

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

本州中部地方にほぼ南北に並走する飛騨山脈(ひださんみゃく)（北アルプス）、木曽山脈(きそさんみゃく)（中央アルプス）、赤石山脈(あかいしさんみゃく)（南アルプス）の総称。3000メートル級の山々が連なるのは日本列島ではこの山域だけであり、日本列島の屋根とよばれ、高峻(こうしゅん)な山岳と深い渓谷が多く、古くから独特の山村文化が発達した地域であり、また本格的な登山やスキーのできる代表的な山域として知られている。

［徳久球雄］

呼称の由来

日本アルプスの呼称は、ヨーロッパ・アルプスに類似した岩峰や雪渓の多い高山的景観からつけられたもので、最初に日本アルプスの呼称を用いたのは、イギリスの冶金(やきん)技術者ガウランドWilliam Gowland（1842―1922）である。彼は立山(たてやま)、槍ヶ岳(やりがたけ)（3180メートル）など飛騨山脈の山々に登り、アーネスト・サトー編の『中部および北方日本旅行者案内』（1881）に、飛騨山脈の山々をたたえ「日本アルプスと称してしかるべきところであろう」と記している。日本アルプスを飛騨、木曽、赤石の3山脈の総称としたのはイギリスの宣教師で日本近代登山の父といわれたW・ウェストンで、彼は1896年ロンドンで出版した『日本アルプス・登山と探検』に日本アルプスの山岳美を紹介している。またウェストンの影響を受けた登山家小島烏水(うすい)は著書『日本アルプス』（全4巻）で北アルプス、中央アルプス、南アルプスの呼称を用い、その総称として日本アルプスの名称を使用している。なお、中部山岳地帯以外の峻険な山々が連なる山地にアルプスの名を付することも多い。

［徳久球雄］

北アルプス

北アルプスは長野、富山、岐阜の3県にまたがり、南北約100キロメートル、東西35キロメートルに及ぶ。松本盆地からは2000メートル以上の高度差があり、高瀬(たかせ)川、梓(あずさ)川、黒部(くろべ)川、常願寺(じょうがんじ)川、神通(じんづう)川上流の蒲田(がまだ)川によって、いくつかの山稜(さんりょう)を構成している。最高の主稜は梓川と蒲田川に挟まれた槍・穂高連峰(やりほたかれんぽう)で、槍ヶ岳から奥穂高岳（3190メートル）を中心とする鋭い岩稜で、上高地(かみこうち)を含め日本アルプスの象徴ともいえる地域となっている。槍・穂高連峰の北方には立山(たてやま)本峰（大汝(おおなんじ)山、3015メートル）、剱岳(つるぎだけ)（2999メートル）、薬師岳（2926メートル）などを中心とする立山連峰と、白馬岳(しろうまだけ)（2932メートル）、鹿島槍ヶ岳(かしまやりがたけ)（2889メートル）を中心とする後立山連峰(うしろたてやまれんぽう)がある。飛騨山脈上に併走する乗鞍火山帯(のりくらかざんたい)には、焼岳(やけだけ)（2455メートル）や、乗鞍岳（3026メートル）、御嶽(おんたけ)（木曽御嶽、3067メートル）などの火山がある。北アルプスの山頂部には立山の山崎圏谷（カール、国の天然記念物）、薬師岳圏谷群（特別天然記念物）、涸沢(からさわ)岳の日本最大の涸沢圏谷など、圏谷、U字谷、構造土などの氷河地形や周氷河地形がみられ、白馬岳の大雪渓をはじめ万年雪を残す所も多い。また諸連峰を限る河川には、黒部峡谷（特別名勝・天然記念物）に代表されるように深い峡谷がみられ、北アルプスの特徴的な景観の一つとなっている。一方、ハイマツ群落や亜高山性針葉樹林が卓越し、まさにアルプス的な高山景観を呈し、北アルプスの大部分は中部山岳国立公園に指定されている。

［徳久球雄］

中央アルプス

中央アルプスは長野、岐阜両県にまたがり、東を天竜川、西を木曽川に限られた山地で、南北70キロメートル、東西20キロメートルに及ぶが、2500メートル以上の高山地域に限れば、最高峰の駒ヶ岳(こまがたけ)（2956メートル）を中心に、北は茶臼(ちゃうす)山（2658メートル）、南は越百(こすも)山（2614メートル）の20キロメートル余の地域である。おもな山は駒ヶ岳のほか、空木岳(うつぎだけ)（2864メートル）、南駒ヶ岳（2841メートル）などがあり、駒ヶ岳の千畳敷(せんじょうじき)や濃(のう)ヶ池のカールは典型的な氷食地形である。木曽山脈は何回かの断続的な隆起により形成され、山腹は急斜面をなしている。なお、主要部は長野県の中央アルプス県立自然公園となっている。

［徳久球雄］

南アルプス

南アルプスは山梨、長野、静岡3県にまたがり、富士川と天竜川の間、南北70キロメートル、東西50キロメートルにわたる広大な山地で、山頂部を中心に南アルプス国立公園となっているが、三つのアルプス地域のなかではもっとも開発が遅れ、原生林地域も多く残されている。最高峰は日本第二の高峰の白根(しらね)山の北岳（3193メートル）で、このほか間ノ岳(あいのたけ)（3190メートル）や農鳥岳(のうとりだけ)（3051メートル）、赤石岳（3121メートル）などがあって北アルプス同様3000メートル級の高峰が多い。高山性の岩稜や雪渓は比較的少ないが、仙丈(せんじょう)ヶ岳、赤石岳、荒川岳付近にはカール地形があり、また各地域に二重山稜や非対称山稜が発達している。

［徳久球雄］

植生

海抜1800メートルから2500メートルまでの山腹はシラビソ、オオシラビソ、トウヒ、コメツガなどの針葉高木林、2500メートル以上はハイマツの低木群落が優占する。針葉高木林帯（シラビソ帯）の植生をみると、本州と四国の山地には共通する植物が多いが、南アルプスの北部を中心とした地域ではチョウセンゴヨウ、イラモミ、ヒメマツハダ、ミスズラン、セリバシオガマなどの固有の種類がとくに多く、本州の針葉高木林帯の中心的な所となっている。また、北アルプスの日本海に近い所では積雪が多いため、針葉樹林の発達が悪く、フロラも貧弱になっている。針葉高木林帯の雪崩(なだれ)の多い斜面には針葉樹が育たず、ダケカンバ、ミヤマハンノキなどの低木林や、ミヤマキンポウゲ、ハクサンフウロ、ミヤマセンキュウなどの花の多い雪崩草原となっている。

　針葉低木林帯（ハイマツ帯）はヨーロッパ・アルプスなどの亜高山帯に相当するもので、ハイマツ群落が密生する。ハイマツ群落は東シベリア方面と共通のものと考えられる。雪の多く吹きだまる所、風当りのとくに強い尾根筋、砂礫(されき)地などでは矮性(わいせい)低木、丈の低い草本の群落がみられる。海抜3000メートル以上になると、矮性低木やイネ科、カヤツリグサ科の植物を主とした群落が広い面積を占めるようになる。これが狭義の高山帯（ヒゲハリスゲ帯）である。高山帯の植物は北半球の極地と温帯高山に類縁が深いが、雪田(せつでん)の植物は北太平洋沿岸、とくにアラスカの沿岸部と共通するものが多い。

［大場達之］

動物相

日本アルプスは、元来、人間の活動が比較的少ない山地であるため、哺乳(ほにゅう)類30種以上、鳥類200種以上が生息する。近年、開発により大形哺乳類の生息地域が縮小され、個体数も減りつつある。全域を通じて注目される大形哺乳類には、ニホンザル、ニホンカモシカ、ツキノワグマ、エチゴウサギなどがあり、このうちニホンカモシカは1955年（昭和30）以来、国の特別天然記念物として保護されている。鳥類は、高山帯特有の留鳥であるライチョウがハイマツ帯に、ホシガラスが亜高山帯以上に生息する。渡り鳥として高山帯にみられるものにイワヒバリ、イワツバメ、チョウゲンボウ、ルリビタキなどがある。昆虫類は、高山チョウのクモマツマキチョウ、ミヤマシロチョウ、タカネヒカゲ、クモマベニヒカゲ、ミヤマモンキチョウなどが知られ、北海道やシベリアとの共通種が少なくない。また、水生昆虫として氷河期の遺存種といわれるセッケイカワゲラやトワダカワゲラなどがすむ。

［新妻昭夫］

登山史

日本の代表的な山岳地域であるだけに、日本アルプスの登山の歴史はそのまま日本の登山史ともいえよう。かつては採草や狩猟のための山登りであったが、平安時代の修験道(しゅげんどう)の確立で山は信仰の対象として登拝されるようになった。それ以前、立山は奈良時代に開山したと伝えられ、また剱岳山頂では奈良時代末期から平安時代初期のものと考えられる錫杖(しゃくじょう)の頭部と槍の穂先が発見されている。立山は平安時代には修験道の道場になり、南北朝以降は信仰登山が盛行した。江戸時代、立山や黒部奥山では、加賀藩の奥山回り役による山林巡視と国境防備のための山回りがあった。後立山連峰針ノ木岳（2821メートル）の鞍部(あんぶ)針ノ木峠は、越中(えっちゅう)と信濃(しなの)を結ぶ重要なルートであったという。中央アルプスの木曽駒ヶ岳の信仰のための登頂は戦国時代中ごろからであったと考えられる。17世紀末から18世紀末にかけて白馬岳、有明(ありあけ)山、御嶽など多くの山が登頂された。槍ヶ岳は1828年（文政11）播隆上人(ばんりゅうしょうにん)によって登頂され、1833年（天保4）には頂上に釈迦(しゃか)尊像が置かれた。

　1878年（明治11）ガウランドが槍ヶ岳へ、アーネスト・サトーが針ノ木峠、立山に登った。1888年に来日したウェストンは槍ヶ岳、赤石岳、白馬岳、御嶽などに登頂した。日本の近代的登山の始まりである。小島烏水らはウェストンの勧めで日本最初の山岳会である日本山岳会を設立した。地理学者志賀重昂(しげたか)は『日本山岳志』（1906）に「日本アルプス山に登るべし」と寄稿、さらに「日本のアルプス山は越後(えちご)、越中の境上より飛騨、信濃の間に連なり、日本本島の中央にうずくまる大山塊で、南北三十五里、東西二十里、花崗岩(かこうがん)帯と片麻岩(へんまがん)帯との間にさく入する日本国中の真正な深山幽谷である」と記した。1906年（明治39）発行の日本山岳会の機関誌『山岳』第1年3号は「日本アルプスの巻」とされており、日本アルプス登山を勧めている。このような形で日本の近代登山は日本アルプスを中心に始まり、また植物研究者、氷河遺跡の研究者による登山のほか、参謀本部の陸地測量部の測量や三角点設置のための登山も行われた。スポーツとしての本格的な登山も行われ、明治末期には日本アルプスの主要な山はほぼ踏破され、登山はバリエーションルートよりのものが盛んとなった。1920年代になると大学の山岳部を中心として積雪期登山が行われるようになり、慶応大学山岳部は1922年（大正11）に槍ヶ岳の、1926年に剱岳の積雪期登頂に成功している。また岩壁登攀(とうはん)も盛んに行われ、バリエーションルートからの登攀は第二次世界大戦前まで続いた。しかしこの間、1927年（昭和2）早大隊の針ノ木谷での、1930年東大隊の剱沢での、ともに雪崩(なだれ)による遭難など多くの事故が起きている。山小屋も立山の室堂などに信仰登山の小屋のみがあったものが、登山者の増加で北アルプス各地に建設された。

　第二次世界大戦後は余暇の増大を背景に、日本山岳会のマナスル登頂の成功などに触発されて登山の大衆化が急速に進んだ。観光開発も進み、北アルプスでは立山黒部アルペンルートの開通で2550メートルの室堂まで歩かずに登ることができ、3000メートルの峰頭まで1～2時間で達せられるようになった。乗鞍岳ではコロナ観測のための道路が改修されて2800メートル近くまで自動車道が通じ、西穂高岳には岐阜県の新穂高温泉からロープウェーが稜線直下まで通じた。また白馬岳をはじめ登山者の多い山岳は、バス路線が高所まで延びていった。中央アルプスの駒ヶ岳には駒ヶ根から千畳敷カールまでロープウェーが建設された。南アルプスは北アルプス、中央アルプスのような開発はみられないが、広河原(ひろがわら)まで林道が建設されるなどの開発が行われた。スキー場の開発も進み、登山のメッカであった日本アルプスも観光地へ転換し、多くの観光登山者を迎えるようになった。しかし、自然保護の面から考えると、開発の進展と登山者の増加によって、高層湿原の減少、ライチョウなどの動物や高山性植物の減少、山小屋などから出される汚物による水の汚染やごみ処理などの問題が多く生じている。現在、ヨーロッパ・アルプスに比して遅れていた山小屋の環境対応が急がれており、トイレ、ゴミ処理の新方式転換、電力などのソーラー化、風力化がすすめられている。

［徳久球雄］

『白籏史朗著『名峰日本アルプス』（1982・山と渓谷社）』▽『山崎安治著『日本登山史　新編』（1986・白水社）』▽『水越武著『雷鳥　日本アルプスに生きる』（1991・平凡社）』▽『大場達之・高橋秀男著『日本アルプス植物図鑑』（1999・八坂書房）』▽『深田久弥著『日本アルプス百名山紀行』（2000・河出書房新社）』▽『庄田元男著『日本アルプスの発見　西洋文化の交流』（2001・茗渓堂）』▽『安川茂雄著『われわれはなぜ山が好きか　ドキュメント「日本アルプス登山」70年史』（小学館文庫）』

槍ヶ岳
日本アルプスの主峰の一つで、北アルプスを代表する山（標高3180m）。氷食によって取り残された山頂部は槍の穂先のような特異な形状をなし、「日本のマッターホルン」ともよばれる。写真は南東麓の天狗池からの眺望。中部山岳国立公園に含まれる。長野県大町市／岐阜県高山市©信州・長野県観光協会">

槍ヶ岳

穂高岳

白馬三山（白馬岳・杓子岳・鑓ヶ岳）
長野・富山県境、北アルプス連峰の北端に位置する。白馬岳から南に杓子岳、鑓ヶ岳が連なる。中部山岳国立公園の一部。写真は白馬村白馬大橋からの眺望で、右から白馬岳（標高2932m）、杓子岳（2812m）、鑓ヶ岳（2903m）。手前は松川。長野県北安曇郡白馬村／富山県黒部市・下新川郡朝日町©信州・長野県観光協会">

白馬三山（白馬岳・杓子岳・鑓ヶ岳）

白馬大雪渓
白馬岳の東斜面にある雪渓。全長約3.5km、標高差約600m。日本三大雪渓の一つで、白馬岳登山のメインルートになっている。周辺は高山植物の宝庫でもあり、夏季、葱平付近はさまざまな花で彩られる。中部山岳国立公園の一部。長野県北安曇郡白馬村©信州・長野県観光協会">

白馬大雪渓

焼岳

乗鞍岳
北アルプス最南端に連なる山々の総称。3000m級の山が5kmにわたって続き、最高峰の剣ヶ峰は標高3026m。古来、山岳信仰の対象になり、山伏の修験道場であった。中部山岳国立公園の一部。写真は乗鞍高原からの眺望で、中央が剣ヶ峰、その左が高天ヶ原。長野県松本市／岐阜県高山市©信州・長野県観光協会">

乗鞍岳

御嶽山

梓川と河童橋

黒部峡谷
黒部川の宇奈月温泉から上流の峡谷。日本最深の峡谷地帯として知られ、流域は中部山岳国立公園に含まれる。宇奈月―欅平間を走る黒部峡谷鉄道は、黒部観光の重要な足となっている。写真は宇奈月温泉近くの新山彦橋。富山県黒部市・中新川郡立山町©公益社団法人富山県観光連盟">

黒部峡谷

駒ヶ岳（木曽駒ヶ岳）

千畳敷カール

北岳
赤石山脈にある、南アルプスの最高峰。標高3193mで、富士山に次ぐ日本第2位の高峰である。間ノ岳、農鳥岳とともに白根三山あるいは白根山ともよばれる。南アルプス国立公園の一部。写真は鳳凰三山の一山、観音岳付近からの眺望。山梨県南アルプス市©やまなし観光推進機構">

北岳

間ノ岳
赤石山脈北部にある日本第4位の高峰（標高3190m）。北の北岳、南の農鳥岳とあわせて白根三山（白根山）とよばれる。雄大な山容で、カール（圏谷）をもつことで知られる。南アルプス国立公園の一部。静岡県静岡市／山梨県南アルプス市・南巨摩郡早川町©やまなし観光推進機構">

間ノ岳

農鳥岳