Five clothes - five clothes

A type of clothing worn by court ladies. It is the inner garment of the court lady's costume or kouchigi costume commonly known as junihitoe (12-layered kimono). It is an uchiki made by layering five layers. Originally, there was no regulation on the number of layers, but from around the end of the Heian period, five layers became appropriate, and it came to be called go-e. The color scheme of these five layers was elaborated, and various layers of colors were used, such as five layers of the same color, "Nioi" in which the colors become darker and lighter from the top of the uchiki, "Usuyo" in which two layers are white, and combinations of different colors for each of the five layers.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

公家(くげ)女子衣服の一種。俗に十二単(ひとえ)といわれる女房装束や小袿(こうちぎ)装束の内衣。五領襲(かさ)ねて組み合わせた袿のこと。元来、襲ねる枚数に規定はなかったが、平安時代末ごろより五領が適当となり、それを五衣とよぶようになった。この五領の配色に趣向をこらし、五領同色にしたもの、襲ねる袿の上から順次、色目を濃くしたり淡くしたりした「匂(にお)い」、うち二領を白にした「薄様(うすよう)」、また五領各異色の組合せにしたものなど、いろいろな襲ね色目のものが用いられた。

［高田倭男］

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