Tsubo Shozoku - Tsubo Shozoku

This is the outfit worn by nobles and samurai women going out from the Heian to Kamakura periods. It is likely that this style was named after the fact that the wide-sleeved, long uchiki with the hem pulled up gives it a vase-like appearance. A kazuki or ichimegasa hat may be worn over this. Thin linen cloth called mushi no tareginu was also used, which was wrapped around the edge of the ichimegasa. When wearing tsuboshozoku, hakama were not usually worn, but sashi-nuki or karibakama were worn when riding horses. For footwear, zori sandals called obuto or straw sandals were worn, and when riding horses, half shoes, a type of fukagutsu, were worn. Tsuboshozoku is depicted in picture scrolls such as "Kokawadera Engi" and "Kasuga Gongen Miracle Record."

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

平安時代から鎌倉時代にかけての公家(くげ)や武家女子の外出姿。広袖(ひろそで)形式で身丈が長い袿(うちき)の裾(すそ)を引き上げて着る姿が壺のような形にみえるため、このように名づけられたのであろう。この上に被衣(かづき)を着たり、市女笠(いちめがさ)をかぶることもある。市女笠の縁に葈(むし)の垂絹(たれぎぬ)といって、薄い麻布を巡らせて垂らしたものも使われた。壺装束のとき、普通、袴(はかま)は履かないが、乗馬の際は指貫(さしぬき)か狩袴(かりばかま)を履いた。履き物は緒太(おぶと)という草履(ぞうり)か、草鞋(わらじ)を履き、乗馬には深沓(ふかぐつ)の一種の半靴(ほうか)を履いた。絵巻物の『粉河寺(こかわでら)縁起』『春日権現(かすがごんげん)霊験記』などに壺装束が描かれている。

［高田倭男］

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