Large crest - Daimon

A type of clothing for samurai. Abbreviation of Omon Hitatare. A hitatare with large patterns on key points. In places where the hitatare and hakama (pair) tend to fray, braided cords called kikutoji were sewn on for both reinforcement and decoration, but in the Muromachi period, people began to embroider or dye patterns of their choice on them. These were placed on the back of the hitatare, at the front sleeve attachment, at the back inner sleeve and end sleeve seams, above both knees of the hakama, and at the crotch stand. Braided cords were attached to both sides of the hitatare to make chest strings to prevent it from coming undone, and tying cords to narrow the cuffs were made formal, and only the parts that hung down were called tsuyu. As the o-mon became formal wear, its composition was determined to be orie-boshi, o-mon, o-katabira, shimo-hakama, and a fan. In the Edo period, as formal wear for samurai of the fifth rank and above the rank of shodayu, the family crest was dyed into hemp cloth, and the hakama was made into a long hakama style. It consisted of a kazaori eboshi, o-mon, noshime kosode (white katabira in summer), and a fan. The origins of what is now known as montsuki can be found in the o-mon.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

武家の衣服の一種。大紋の直垂(ひたたれ)の略。大きな紋様を要所につけた直垂のこと。上下対(つい)とした直垂と袴(はかま)のほつれやすい箇所に、補強と装飾を兼ねて、菊綴(きくとじ)といって組紐(くみひも)を綴じ付けたが、室町時代、ここに好みの紋様を刺しゅうしたり、染めたりするようになった。この位置は、直垂の背、前面袖付(そでつけ)、後面奥袖と端袖の縫い目、袴の両膝(ひざ)の上、股立(ももだち)である。直垂の両胸に組紐をつけて胸紐とし、はだけるのを防ぎ、袖口をすぼめるための括(くく)り紐は形式化して、下に垂らす部分のみ露(つゆ)と称してつけた。大紋が礼服化するとともに、その構成は折烏帽子(おりえぼし)、大紋、大帷(おおかたびら)、下袴、扇と定められた。江戸時代には、五位の武士で諸太夫以上の者の礼服として、麻布地に家紋を染め抜くものとなり、袴は長袴形式とされた。その構成は風折(かざおり)烏帽子、大紋、熨斗目(のしめ)小袖（夏は白帷(しろかたびら)）、扇とした。後世のいわゆる紋付の淵源(えんげん)は大紋に求められる。

［高田倭男］

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例