Ceremonial clothing - Saifuku

Japanese: 祭服 - さいふく

Clothing worn when serving at religious ceremonies. The ancient "Clothing Order" from the beginning of the 8th century stipulated ceremonial attire, morning attire, and uniforms, and in the mid-Heian period, men's clothing included the sokutai and ikan, while women's clothing included the ittsuginu, karaginu, and mo, all of which were unique to Japan and were created by imitating the Chinese system. Shinto ritual clothing can be broadly divided into those worn by the imperial family, those worn at Ise Shrine, and those worn at shrines throughout Japan other than the shrine.

The ceremonial attire of the Imperial Family is further divided into those for the Emperor, Empress, Crown Prince, Crown Princess, Imperial Family, and Clerical Office officials.

The Emperor has six types of clothing.

(1) Festival clothing: worn for the most important ceremonies, the Daijosai and Niinamesai. Made of pure white unwoven silk.

(2) Haku no Gohou (Clothes made of pure white plain silk). It is worn on the day of the enthronement ceremony, during the Omae-no-gi ceremony at the Kashikodokoro Palace, and when the Emperor travels from the Tongu Palace to the Kairyuden Palace.

(3) Korozen no Gohou (Imperial Robe) - This robe is dyed with yellow lacquer and has designs of paulownia trees, bamboo, phoenixes, and kirins. It is worn for the regular ceremonies of the three Imperial shrines and other occasions.

The styles of (1) to (3) are sokutai (traditional court robes), and there are differences in the fabric, such as suzushi (raw silk) or neriginu (pasteurized silk).

(4) Ohiki no Ushi: This is a formal attire with the hem pulled up. It is worn for the annual ceremony of dispatching imperial envoys.

(1) to (4) are clothing worn only by the Emperor.

(5) Onoshi (robe) - It is made in the same style as the Houeki (cloth) of the Sokutai (coat), and is worn for special ceremonies when dispatching Imperial envoys.

(6) Okonoushi (small garment): This is worn at the time of festivals, when the Emperor inspects the offerings of the sacred offerings.

The nokogi (robe) in (4) to (6) is in the hitoe style.

The Empress wears three types of clothing, either in the twelve-layered kimono style or a simplified version of it.

(1) Haku no Gofuku (Clothes for the Emperor): This consists of the Onittsuginu (Five-layered Robe), Onkaraginu (Clothes for the Emperor), Onmo (Skirt), etc., and is made of pure white plain silk. It is worn at the Kashikodokoro Daimae Ceremony and the Daijosai Ceremony on the day of the enthronement ceremony.

(2) Gogoi, Gokaragomo, and Gosou - all of which are decorated with brilliant colors. They are used for the Shishinden ceremony on the day of the enthronement ceremony, as well as for the important ceremonies following the ceremony in (1).

(3) Ongoi, Onkouchiki, and Onnagabakama - These are worn during major and minor festivals throughout the year.

The Crown Prince's clothing consists of four types: (1) Saifuku (ceremonial clothing), (2) Ouni no Ho (sokutai), (3) Ikan Hitoe, and (4) Choi. The clothing of male members of the Imperial Family is generally similar to these. However, the Ouni no Ho is reserved for the Crown Prince, and all members of the Imperial Family wear black robes.

The Crown Princess's clothing consists of three types: (1) Goi, karaginu, and mo, (2) Goi, kosode, and nagabakama, and (3) uchikihakama, and female members of the Imperial Family generally wear similar clothing.

The customary ceremonial attire for the priesthood officials is a ceremonial robe or a jōe (purification robe), and for major ceremonies they wear a sokutai (traditional Japanese formal attire) or ikanhito (a type of formal attire), and all the chief priests wear uchiki and hakama (traditional Japanese formal attire).

At Ise Shrine, the ritual clothing is made of raw silk and is jōi for regular ceremonies, and for Shikinen Sengu (period shrine rebuilding), the chief priest and those below wear sokutai, myōe, ikikan, saifuku, jōi, and other clothing. However, female chief priests wear kosoki and hakama or kimono and hakama. The ritual clothing at shrines throughout Japan other than the Ise Shrine is as follows: for men, formal attire and ikikan for major festivals, ceremonial attire and jōi for medium festivals, and everyday attire and kariginu or jōi for minor festivals; for women, formal attire and kimono and hakama for major festivals, ceremonial attire and kimono and hakama or suikan for medium festivals, and everyday attire and suikan for minor festivals.

[Numabe Harutomo]

Christianity

Special clothing worn by priests during church liturgies, the conferment of sacraments such as baptism and marriage, and blessing ceremonies. The origins of the use of vestments date back to the time of the Old Testament, and they have been used continuously in Christianity since the early Christian era. Although vestments are different from ordinary clothing, they have changed depending on the era and culture.

The Catholic Church has Roman vestments and Gothic vestments. Colors such as white, red, purple, and green are used for vestments, with white for holidays such as Christmas and Easter, red for commemorations of martyrs, purple for Lent, and green for other years except Holy Days. Currently, the colors have been simplified compared to the past, and even on holidays where red, rosary, or purple vestments are specified, a strap of that color may be worn over a white vestment (chasuba).

[Shin Anzai]

"New Vestments" by A. Flühler, translated by Yoshimasa Tsuchiya (1966, Nansosha)

Shinto Vestments
©Masazumi Fujita ">

Shinto Vestments

Christian vestments (Catholic)
©Masazumi Fujita ">

Christian vestments (Catholic)

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

祭祀(さいし)に仕えるときに着用する服。古く8世紀初頭の「衣服令(りょう)」には、礼服(らいふく)、朝服(ちょうふく)、制服(せいふく)の制があり、平安中期には、男子服に束帯(そくたい)、衣冠(いかん)、女子服に五衣(いつつぎぬ)、唐衣(からぎぬ)、裳(も)などができ、唐制模倣からわが国独自のものがつくられた。神道(しんとう)における祭服は、皇室の祭服、伊勢(いせ)の神宮の祭服、神宮以外の全国神社の祭服とに大別できる。

　皇室の祭服は、さらに天皇、皇后、皇太子、同妃、皇族、掌典職(しょうてんしょく)職員とに分けられる。

　天皇の御服は6種ある。

(1)御祭(ごさい)服―もっとも重大なる大嘗祭(だいじょうさい)と新嘗祭(にいなめさい)に着用される。純白生織りのままの絹地でつくる。

(2)帛御袍(はくのごほう)―純白の平絹(へいけん)の御服。大礼のとき、即位礼の当日、賢所(かしこどころ)の大前の儀および頓宮(とんぐう)より廻立殿(かいりゅうでん)に渡御(とぎょ)のときに召される。

(3)黄櫨染御袍(こうろぜんのごほう)―黄櫨染めで、桐(きり)・竹・鳳凰(ほうおう)・麒麟(きりん)の地文がある。宮中三殿の恒例の祭祀その他に召される。

　(1)～(3)の様式は束帯(そくたい)で、生地に生絹(すずし)、練絹(ねりぎぬ)などの違いがある。

(4)御引直衣(おひきのうし)―御直衣の裾(すそ)を引いたもの。恒例の勅使発遣の儀に召される。

　(1)～(4)は天皇のみが御着用になる御服である。

(5)御直衣(おのうし)―仕立ては束帯の縫腋(ほうえき)に同じで、臨時の勅使発遣の儀に召される。

(6)御小直衣(おこのうし)―節折(よおり)、奉納される御霊代(みたましろ)御覧のときに召される。

　(4)～(6)の直衣は、衣冠単(ひとえ)の様式である。

　皇后の御服は3種あり、様式は十二単(ひとえ)あるいはこれを簡略化したもの。

(1)帛御服(はくのごふく)―御五衣(おんいつつぎぬ)・御唐衣(おんからぎぬ)・御裳(おんも)などからなり、純白の平絹でつくる。即位礼当日、賢所大前の儀および大嘗祭に召される。

(2)御五衣・御唐衣・御裳―すべて絢爛(けんらん)の色彩を施したもの。即位礼当日紫宸殿(ししんでん)の儀のほか、(1)の儀に次ぐ重儀に召される。

(3)御五衣・御小袿(おんこうちき)・御長袴(おんながばかま)―年中の大祭・小祭を通じて召される。

　皇太子の御服は、(1)斎服(さいふく)、(2)黄丹袍(おうにのほう)（束帯）、(3)衣冠単、(4)直衣の4種で、男子皇族の御服はだいたいこれに準ずる。ただし、黄丹袍は皇太子専用で、皇族はすべて黒袍。

　皇太子妃の御服は、(1)五衣・唐衣・裳、(2)五衣・小袿・長袴、(3)袿袴(うちきはかま)の3種で、女子皇族はだいたいこれに準ずる。

　掌典職職員は、恒例の祭服は、斎服または浄衣(じょうえ)で、大礼には、束帯または衣冠単を用い、内掌典はすべて袿袴を用いる。

　伊勢の神宮における祭服は、恒例祭祀には生絹の斎服もしくは浄衣、式年遷宮のときは祭主以下束帯・明衣(みょうえ)・衣冠・斎服・浄衣その他を用いる。ただし、女子祭主は小袿・袴または袿袴である。神宮以外の全国神社の祭服は、男子は大祭は正装で衣冠、中祭は礼装で斎服、小祭は常装で狩衣(かりぎぬ)または浄衣、女子は大祭は正装で袿袴、中祭は礼装で袿袴または水干(すいかん)、小祭は常装で水干と定められている。

［沼部春友］

キリスト教

教会の典礼、洗礼や婚姻などの秘蹟(ひせき)の授与、祝別式などの儀式に司祭が着用する特別の衣服。祭服が使用された起源は『旧約聖書』の時代までさかのぼり、キリスト教においても初期キリスト教時代以来連綿として用いられている。祭服は一般の衣服とは異なるが、時代と文化の影響を受けて変化がみられる。

　カトリック教会の祭服にはローマ式祭服やゴシック式祭服などがある。祭服には白、赤、紫、緑などの色が用いられ、クリスマスや復活祭などの祝日には白、殉教者の記念には赤、キリストの受難節には紫、聖節以外の年間には緑現在は以前と比べて簡喜化され、赤や録や紫の祭服が指定されている祝日でも白い祭服（カズラ）の上からその色のストラをかけてもよい。

［安齋　伸］

『A・フリューラー著、土屋吉正訳『新しい祭服』（1966・南窓社）』

神道の祭服
©藤田正純">

神道の祭服

キリスト教の祭服（カトリック）

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