Gold brocade

Japanese: 金襴 - きんらん

A type of patterned fabric. It is woven with gold thread as the weft on a ground of twill, satin, amber, etc. There are two types: one in which gold thread is woven only in the pattern area, called enuki, and one in which the ground is woven with gold thread and the pattern is called jinuki (the color of the ground is removed to show the pattern). It is mostly made of silk, but cotton and mixed weaves are also available. It is mainly used for obi, bags, mounting materials, Noh costumes, etc. It was originally imported from China, but began to be woven in Nishijin from the end of the Momoyama period. Older ones were prized by tea masters as famous cloth. The one that uses silver thread instead of gold thread is called ginran.
→ Related topicsSilk fabrics｜Gold leaf｜Ancient textiles｜Nishijin weaving

Source : Heibonsha Encyclopedia About MyPedia Information

Japanese:

紋織物の一種。綾(あや)，繻子(しゅす)，琥珀(こはく)などの地に緯糸(よこいと)に金糸を用いて模様を織り出したもので，模様の部分だけ金糸を織りこんで絵緯(えぬき)にしたものと，地を金糸で織り，模様を地緯(じぬき)（地の色を抜いて模様を表す）にしたものがある。地質は絹が多いが，綿や交織もある。おもに帯，袋物，表具地，能衣装などに用いる。もとは中国から輸入されたが，桃山末期から西陣でも織られるようになった。古いものは名物裂(ぎれ)として茶人に珍重された。なお金糸の代りに銀糸を用いたものは銀襴という。
→関連項目絹織物｜金箔｜古代裂｜西陣織

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