Koji dust - Kikujin

…The entry for February 1, 820 in the Nihon Kiryaku (Abridged Chronicles of Japan) states that lacquer-dyed robes were used for the first day of the month, when receiving government and government affairs, when offering offerings, when holding large and small ceremonies, and when receiving foreign envoys. The emperor also wore kikujin robes, which were called "aoiro" and were more informal than the imperial robes and were used for archery and yuba-hajime, and were also given to kurashige and other officials. The lacquer-dyed robes (the same kikujin) were twilled, and originally had a paulownia, bamboo, and phoenix pattern woven throughout, but from the Kamakura to Muromachi periods, the paulownia, bamboo, phoenix, and kirin were added to the box-shaped robes, and the designs were woven symmetrically into a square pattern. …

*Some of the terminology that refers to "koji dust" is listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…《日本紀略》弘仁11年(820)2月1日の条に，朔日の受朝や聴政をはじめ，奉幣，大小諸会のとき，あるいは外国の使を受ける場合などに黄櫨染衣を用いるとある。なお天皇の袍にはこのほか麴塵（きくじん）の袍があり，これは〈あをいろ〉と称して位袍より略式のものとして賭弓（のりゆみ）や弓場始（ゆばはじめ）の時などに用いられ，蔵人などにも与えている。黄櫨染(麴塵も同じ)の袍は綾地であり，はじめ全体に桐竹鳳凰の文様が織り出されていたが，鎌倉から室町時代になって筥形（はこがた）に桐竹鳳凰，それに麒麟（きりん）が加わり，四角な文様にシンメトリーに図柄がおさめられて織り出されることとなった。…

※「麴塵」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第２版について | 情報