The robe of koji dust - Kikujin no Hou

Japanese: 麴塵の袍 - きくじんのほう
The robe of koji dust - Kikujin no Hou

…The entry for February 1, 820 in the Nihon Kiryaku (Abridged Chronicles of Japan) states that lacquer-dyed robes were used for the first day of the month, when receiving government and government affairs, when offering offerings, when holding large and small ceremonies, and when receiving foreign envoys. The emperor also wore kikujin robes, which were called "aoiro" and were more informal than the imperial robes and were used for archery and yuba-hajime, and were also given to kurashige and other officials. The lacquer-dyed robes (the same kikujin) were twilled, and originally had a paulownia, bamboo, and phoenix pattern woven throughout, but from the Kamakura to Muromachi periods, the paulownia, bamboo, phoenix, and kirin were added to the box-shaped robes, and the designs were woven symmetrically into a square pattern. …

From [Seigaiha]

...The name of a piece of gagaku, kangen, or bugaku music. Included in Togaku, it is in the banshiki style. It is a two-person dance, Bun no mai (flat dance). It is also written Seikaiha, Seikaiha, or Seikaiha. In bugaku, the dancers perform the introductory part with the rindai (banshiki style, four-person dance), followed by the break with Seikaiha. Unusually for bugaku, it is accompanied by the koto and biwa, so it is called kangen bugaku. The pair of dancers is called shikite. For the rindai, the dancers wear the usual saho kasane costume with a betsukabuto (secondary armor), while for the seigaiha, the dancers wear the robe of the special costume for this piece, worn over one shoulder, with the betsukabuto on their head, and a sword attached to their waist. ...

*Some of the terminology explanations that refer to "Koji dust robes" are listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

Japanese:

…《日本紀略》弘仁11年(820)2月1日の条に,朔日の受朝や聴政をはじめ,奉幣,大小諸会のとき,あるいは外国の使を受ける場合などに黄櫨染衣を用いるとある。なお天皇の袍にはこのほか麴塵(きくじん)の袍があり,これは〈あをいろ〉と称して位袍より略式のものとして賭弓(のりゆみ)や弓場始(ゆばはじめ)の時などに用いられ,蔵人などにも与えている。黄櫨染(麴塵も同じ)の袍は綾地であり,はじめ全体に桐竹鳳凰の文様が織り出されていたが,鎌倉から室町時代になって筥形(はこがた)に桐竹鳳凰,それに麒麟(きりん)が加わり,四角な文様にシンメトリーに図柄がおさめられて織り出されることとなった。…

【青海波】より

…雅楽,管絃,舞楽の曲名。唐楽にふくまれ盤渉(ばんしき)調。二人舞の文ノ舞(平舞)。清海波,静海波,青海破とも書く。舞楽のときは,《輪台(りんだい)》(盤渉調,四人舞)を序,《青海波》を破として続けて舞う。舞楽の中では珍しく,箏と琵琶が伴奏に用いられるので,〈管絃舞楽〉と呼ばれる。番舞(つがいまい)は《敷手(しきて)》。《輪台》は左方襲(さほうかさね)(常)装束に別甲(べつかぶと)を,《青海波》はこの曲用の別装束の袍を片肩袒(かたかたぬぎ)に,別甲をかぶり,太刀を腰につけて舞う。…

※「麴塵の袍」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報

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