...Until the 1910s, perfumes made primarily from natural fragrances were sold by specialized perfume and cosmetics manufacturers such as Yardley, Houbigant, Roger & Gallet, Guerlain, Coty, and Caron. In the 1920s, haute couture brand Chanel released its perfume No. 5, which contained synthetic aldehydes, and thereafter designer brands such as Lanvin, Jean Patou, Schiaparelli, and Dior began to sell perfumes. Fragrance types have also evolved from single floral (simple floral scents) to oriental (animal scents such as musk, such as Dana's Taboo and Guerlain's Borr de Nuits (Night Flight)), chypre (powdery scents reminiscent of the island of Sicily, such as Guerlain's Mitsouko and Dior's Miss Dior), floral bouquet (flower bouquet scents, such as Jean Patou's Joy and Nina Ricci's Capricci), aldehyde (modern scents dominated by synthetic aldehydes, such as Chanel No. 5 and Lanvin's Arpege), and from the 1970s green notes (green leaves and grass scents, such as Chanel No. 19 and Y. Saint Laurent's Ygrec) became popular. The role played by perfumers, who can distinguish and mix the various subtle differences in scent, is also important in the diverse development of these perfumes. *Some of the terminology explanations that mention "Capricci" are listed below. Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information |
…1910年代まではヤードレー,ウビガン,ロジェ・アンド・ガレ,ゲラン,コティ,キャロンといった香水や化粧品の専門メーカーによって,それも天然香料を主にした香水が発売されていたが,1920年代になってオート・クチュールのシャネルが合成香料のアルデハイドを配合した香水〈No.5〉を発表し,以後ランバン,ジャン・パトゥ,スキャパレリ,ディオールなどデザイナー・ブランドの香水が発売される傾向になった。香りのタイプもシングルフローラル(単純な花の香り)からオリエンタル(ジャコウなど動物的な香り,ダナの〈タブー〉,ゲランの〈ボル・ド・ニュイ(夜間飛行)〉など),シプレー(シプル島のイメージをもった粉っぽい香り,ゲランの〈ミツコ〉,ディオールの〈ミス・ディオール〉など),フローラルブーケ(花束の香り,ジャン・パトゥの〈ジョイ〉,ニナ・リッチの〈カプリッチ〉など),アルデハイド(合成香料アルデハイドを主調としたモダンな香り,〈シャネルNo.5〉,ランバンの〈アルページュ〉など)と発展し,1970年代からグリーン・ノート(青葉・青草の香り,〈シャネルNo.19〉,Y.サン・ローランの〈イグレック〉など)が流行した。これらの香水の多様な発展には,そのさまざまな微妙な匂いの違いをかぎわけて調合する調香師の果たす役割も見逃せない。… ※「カプリッチ」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。 出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報 |
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