Karaori

Karaori was originally a general term for textiles imported from China, but it is now a Yusoku textile with a patterned ground pattern woven with a picture weft. In other words, it became a general term for textiles with a double weave and a raised pattern, and from there it came to refer to textiles with a specific weave, and furthermore, textiles woven with this weave were used for Noh costumes, so it also became the name for costumes. As a textile, raw silk is used for the warp threads, and ground weft threads are woven into them in a three-ply warp twill pattern, and various picture weft threads are used in the shed to create a luxurious pattern, almost like embroidery, and it is also called Nuito-ori. The term Karaori in Noh costumes is primarily the name of the outerwear worn by female roles, but as Karaori was used for short-sleeved costumes with short sleeves, it evolved into the name of the costume, and the name came to be used in other costumes as well, including those that are not Karaori.

[Kadoyama Yukihiro]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

唐織は、もと中国から渡来した織物の総称であったが、地紋のうえに絵緯(えぬき)で上文(うわもん)を織り出した有職(ゆうそく)織物。つまり二倍(ふたえ)織物に浮文(うきもん)のある織物をさす一般的な呼称となり、そこから特定の組織をもつ織物をさすようになり、さらにこの組織によって織ったものが能装束に使用されたことから装束名ともなった。織物としては、経(たて)糸に生糸を用い、これに地緯糸(じぬきいと)を経三枚綾(あや)に織り込み、この杼口(ひぐち)に種々の絵緯糸を色数だけの杼(ひ)を用いて文様を表す豪華な、あたかも刺しゅうのような外観を呈したもので、また縫取織(ぬいとりおり)ともいわれる。能装束の唐織は、主として女役が表着(うわぎ)に用いる装束の名称となるが、小袖(こそで)形の詰袖の装束で唐織が使用されることから装束名に転化し、唐織でなくても名称が拡大して使用されることになった。

［角山幸洋］

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例