Headgear - Headgear

Japanese: 被り物 - かぶりもの

A general term for items that cover the head or face. These include crowns, bonnets, hats, umbrellas, hoods, hand towels, masks and wigs, and are used in various ways depending on the era, status, region and purpose. Headgear originally had two uses: to protect the head and keep out the cold or heat, and as decoration in ceremonies or as part of clothing. Materials used include cloth, leather, cotton, paper and rice straw, and these materials are often coated with lacquer, tannins and oils to give them shape. These are influenced by changes in the times and customs.

[Takeshi Endo]

Japan

In Japan, crowns and hats can be seen in ancient documents such as the Nihon Shoki and the Kojiki, and various types of headgear were used on the human figures of the Haniwa clay figurines that were popular in the 5th and 6th centuries, some of which were even gilded with gold. Many of these were imported from ancient China. In 603 (the 11th year of the reign of Empress Suiko), the crown and rank system was established based on the Sui dynasty's dress code, and after the Taiho Code was enacted in 701 (the 1st year of the Taiho era), ceremonial crowns and hoods became headgear worn with ceremonial clothing, morning clothes, and uniforms. In the Heian period, ceremonial clothing was replaced by the morning clothes of the Sokutai, and crowns were used by nobles, while eboshi hats were used for everyday clothing. In the noble society of the time, even if one was sick in bed, it was customary to wear head coverings when meeting others. This can be seen in the Tale of Genji Illustrated Scroll. When going out, women would wear a steeply sloping ichimegasa hat or a kazuki, never going out bare faced. To protect against the cold and poisonous insects in summer, a ramie was hung like a veil from the edge of the ichimegasa hat, called a "mushi no tareginu."

In the Kamakura period, samurai society, unlike court nobles, wore clothes that were easy to move around in, so headgear became centered on eboshi hats rather than kamuri. For eboshi hats, Tate-eboshi, Kazaori-eboshi, and Samurai-eboshi were used, and to prevent the head from getting steamy, black lacquer was applied to gauze, but later it came to be made of paper and painted with black lacquer. Among women, Katsuramaki, which originated from the customs of Katsura women in Kyoto, was popular. During the Muromachi period, which was a samurai society, and especially after the Onin War (1467-77), Sakayaki, which was used to prevent hair from getting steamy, was popular. Around the Azuchi-Momoyama period, the custom of not wearing headgear, Rocho, became popular, and Chasenmage, which is a style of hair tied at the back of the head, became popular. The arrival of the Nanban people also brought new Western hats, which were highly valued in Japan and called Nanban hats or Nanban hats. One that Oda Nobunaga gave to a vassal of Maeda Toshiie as a memento of a victory still exists. Western hats were popular among some common people in the early Edo period, but as the custom of wearing robes became widespread, kanmuri hats and eboshi hats became ceremonial, and hats were often used when going out. In particular, after the crackdown on ronin became stricter during the Manji era (1658-61), even covering one's cheeks with a tenugui was forbidden, and women were strictly prohibited from walking around the streets of Edo wearing a haori, which only remained as a Kyoto custom or wedding custom. However, men used hats, hoods, and tenugui, and women used hats, hats, and tenugui to keep warm or cool, or to keep out the dust when the wind blew, and the types, wearing methods, materials, and dyeing and weaving of these hats varied. In mountain farming and fishing villages, headgear used for work included homemade plant products, as well as tenugui, which were useful for wiping sweat, wiping hands, as obi belts, etc. In the Tohoku region, two tenugui were used, known as nimai tenugui or yohan tenugui.

After the Meiji Restoration, men began wearing Western hats as part of their zangiri hairstyle, and hats began to be worn by people in the army, navy, railroads, police, and postal service. For women, ladies' hats appeared after the Rokumeikan era in the 1870s and 80s, when Western clothing was adopted, and with the spread of school uniforms, it became normal for both men and women to wear hats. In the Taisho era, along with the movement to improve lifestyles and increase efficiency, a trend arose of women wearing unique hats with their work uniforms, and this trend intensified after the Great Kanto Earthquake.

[Takeshi Endo]

Western

It is a general term for headwear, and corresponds to the English terms headdress, headwear, headgear, headcloth, and headcovering. In Japanese, "mono" is added to the conjunctive form of a verb to indicate the object that is the subject of the action, or the result of the action. In this case, "mono" is used to generalize, conceptualize, or limit an object. Examples include headgear, footwear, and kimono, as well as reading material, food, and pottery. When expressing a state or attitude as a noun, it is similar to making it into a gerund in English or adding "wear" to the end of a word. Although headwear and headcovering are no exception to this rule, they do not have the same comprehensive function as the Japanese "mono". For this reason, headgear in the West is generally used in a differentiated way, such as "hat," "coif," "hood," "scarf," and "veil," so please refer to each section for details. Here, we will trace the outline of the changes. In any case, the head is the most visible part of the human body when walking upright, and so headgear is very diverse and varied.

In ancient Egypt, both men and women wore wigs, and sometimes kings and queens wore striped linen hoods. In ancient Mesopotamia, kings and soldiers wore felt crowns and helmets, and Persian nobles wore cloth hoods in the form of turbans. In ancient Greece, young men and women wore wide-brimmed sun hats, and women sometimes wore hoods. In ancient Rome, men wore tight-fitting felt cup hats or conical hats, but the majority of people went without a hat. In the Romanesque period of the Middle Ages, both men and women began to wear hoods, veils, and cowls, probably due to the influence of Islamic culture. Meanwhile, in the Gothic period, people wore a unique hood called a chapron, a pointed hat for women called an henan, or a tall headgear called an escophion. During the Renaissance, berets were overwhelmingly worn by both men and women, but in the 17th century, high-peaked felt hats were worn, and eventually, as the use of wigs increased among men, triangular hats were worn, and women wore a unique headgear called fontangue. During the Rococo period, men continued to wear the headgear of their predecessors, but women's headgear changed completely to hood-shaped headgear, and wigs became extraordinarily large. After the French Revolution, top hats became more common, and bonnet-shaped hats became popular among women. In the 20th century, bowler hats, soft hats, and hunting caps were worn by men, but after World War II, the no-hat policy became the norm. On the other hand, women had the custom of wearing hats when dressed up, and as a result, designs became more diverse, but the no-hat policy after the war extended to women as well, and continues to this day.

[Akira Ishiyama]

``Takeshi Endo's 'Early Modern Mode Booklet' (included in Clothing Culture No. 18, 1952, Bunka Publishing Bureau)'' ▽ ` `Reprint edition of Morisada Kitagawa's ``Ruiju Early Modern Fuzokushi'' (1934, Shoseikaku)'' ▽ ``R. Turner WilcoxThe Mode in Hats and Headdress (1945, Charles Scribner's Sons, New York)''

Eboshi
©Minoru Sugai

Eboshi

Main types of hoods (Japan)
©Minoru Sugai

Main types of hoods (Japan)

Main types of hoods (Western)
©Minoru Sugai

Main types of hoods (Western)

Western Hat Types(1)
©Minoru Sugai

Western Hat Types(1)

Western Hat Types(2)
©Minoru Sugai

Western Hat Types(2)

Western Hat Types(3)
©Minoru Sugai

Western Hat Types(3)

Western Hat Types(4)(5)
©Minoru Sugai

Western Hat Types(4)(5)

Western Hat Types(6)
©Minoru Sugai

Western Hat Types(6)

Bird hunting hat
©Mitsuyoshi Tashiro ">

Bird hunting hat

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

頭部や顔面を覆う物の総称。冠(かんむり)、幞頭(ぼくとう)、帽子、笠(かさ)、頭巾(ずきん)、手拭(てぬぐい)、覆面やかつらなどがあり、これらは時代、身分、地域、用途によっていろいろに用いられる。本来被り物は、頭部を保護し防寒、防暑に用いる場合と、儀礼あるいは服飾構成の際に装飾として用いる場合とがある。材料には布帛(ふはく)、皮革、綿、紙、稲藁(いねわら)などが用いられ、さらにこれらの材料に、漆、渋、油などを塗って、その形を整えることも多い。これらは時世の変容、風俗の変化によって左右される。

［遠藤　武］

日本

わが国では『日本書紀』や『古事記』などの古文献に、冠、笠のことがみえており、5、6世紀に盛行した埴輪(はにわ)の人物像にもいろいろの形の被り物が使われ、なかには黄金で鍍金(ときん)されたものさえある。これらは、古代中国文化の舶載によるものが多かった。603年（推古天皇11）には、隋(ずい)の服制に倣って冠位制度が敷かれ、ついで701年（大宝1）に大宝律令(たいほうりつりょう)が制定されてから、礼冠(らいかん)、頭巾(とうきん)が礼服(らいふく)、朝服(ちょうふく)、制服の際の被り物となった。平安時代、礼服にかわって朝服である束帯が儀礼用となって、冠が公家(くげ)の間に使われ、同時に烏帽子(えぼし)が平常用の服飾に用いられた。当時公家社会では、たとえ病床にあっても、他人と会うときには被り物をつけることになっていた。このことは『源氏物語絵巻』からもうかがうことができる。女性は外出の場合、傾斜の深い市女笠(いちめがさ)をかぶったり、被衣(かづき)をかぶって、けっして素顔で出歩くことをしなかった。防寒や夏の毒虫の用心のため、市女笠のへりには、カラムシをベールのように下げて「枲(むし)の垂衣(たれぎぬ)」といった。

　鎌倉時代となって武家社会は公家社会とは異なり挙動に便利な服装を用いたので、被り物は冠よりも烏帽子中心となった。烏帽子にも、立(たて)烏帽子、風折(かざおり)烏帽子、侍(さむらい)烏帽子が使われ、頭の蒸れを防ぐ意味から、紗(しゃ)に黒漆を引いたのを用いたが、のちには紙でつくって黒漆を塗るようになった。女性の間では、京都の桂(かつら)の女たちの風俗から出た桂巻(かつらまき)が行われた。室町時代は、武家社会であり、ことに応仁(おうにん)の乱（1467～77）以後となると、頭髪の蒸れを防ぐ意味から月代(さかやき)が行われた。安土(あづち)桃山時代前後からは、被り物をかぶらぬ露頂(ろちょう)という風俗が流行し、髪を後頭部でまとめた茶筅髷(ちゃせんまげ)が流行することとなった。また南蛮人の渡来で、新しく西洋の帽子がもたらされ、わが国では、これを南蛮笠、南蛮帽子といって珍重した。織田信長が前田利家(としいえ)の家臣に、戦勝の記念として与えたものが現存している。西洋の帽子は、江戸時代初期には一部の庶民の間に流行したが、露頂の風俗の一般化で、冠、烏帽子が儀礼用となり、外出には笠を用いることが多くなった。ことに万治(まんじ)年間（1658～61）に浪人の取締りが厳しくなってからは、手拭(てぬぐい)による頬(ほお)かぶりさえ禁じられたので、女性が被衣で江戸の街を歩くことも厳禁され、それはわずかに京風俗や婚礼風俗として残った。ただ防寒用、防暑用、あるいは風の吹くときのほこりよけに、男性は笠、頭巾、手拭を、女性は笠、帽子、手拭を用い、その種類、着装法、材料、染織もさまざまであった。山農漁村での労働用として用いる被り物は、自家手作りの植物製品に加えて、汗ふき、手ふき、帯など、いろいろな方面に便利に活用される手拭を用い、東北地方では、二枚手拭、四はん手拭といって、手拭2枚を使った。

　明治維新後、男子の散切(ざんぎり)により西洋帽子が着用され始め、陸海軍、鉄道、警察、郵便関係の人々の間で帽子が使われるようになった。女性の間では、明治10年代の鹿鳴館(ろくめいかん)時代以後、洋装が取り入れられてから婦人帽がおこり、また学生服の普及により男子も女子も帽子をかぶることが普通となっていった。大正時代になって、生活改善という生活に能率をあげる運動とともに、女性の職場服に独特な帽子を用いる風潮がおこり、この傾向は関東大震災以降いっそう激しくなった。

［遠藤　武］

西洋

頭にかぶるものの総称であり、英語のheaddress, headwear, headgear, headcloth, headcoveringなどにあたる。日本語では動詞の連用形に「もの」をつけて、そのような動作の対象となる物品を表したり、動作の結果できた物品を表したりする。この場合の「もの」は、物体を一般化したり、概念化したり、あるいは限定したりするのに使われる。被り物、履き物、着物などのほか、読み物、食べ物、焼き物などもそうである。ある状態や態度を名詞化して表すとき、英語では動名詞にしたり、語尾にwearをつけたりするのに似ている。headwearやheadcoveringもその例に漏れないとしても、日本語の「もの」ほどの包括的な機能はもっていない。こうしたことから、西洋での被り物は、「帽子hat」「頭巾coif」「フードhood」「スカーフscarf」「ベールveil」など、それぞれに分化して用いられるのが一般であるから、詳しくは各項を参照していただくとして、ここでは変遷の概略をたどってみることにする。いずれにせよ、直立して歩く人間にとって頭部は一番目だつ箇所であり、それだけに被り物は多様で変化に富んでいる。

　古代エジプトでは男女ともかつらをかぶり、ときおり、王や王妃は縞柄(しまがら)の亜麻(あま)布の頭巾をかぶった。古代メソポタミアの王や兵士はフェルトの王冠やヘルメットをかぶり、ペルシアの貴族は布頭巾(ずきん)をターバン状にかぶった。古代ギリシアの青年男女はつば広の日よけ帽をかぶり、婦人はときおり頭巾をかぶっている。古代ローマでは男性はフェルトのぴったりした椀(わん)形帽か円錐(えんすい)帽をかぶったが、無帽が圧倒的だった。中世のロマネスク期になると男女ともフード、ベール、頭巾などをかぶることが多くなるが、これはイスラム文化の影響によるものであろう。一方、ゴシック期にはシャプロンという独特の頭巾や、エナンという婦人用とんがり帽、あるいはエスコフィオンという丈高い被り物がかぶられた。ルネサンス期になると圧倒的に男女ともベレー帽が多くなるが、17世紀になると山の高いフェルト帽がかぶられ、やがて男性にかつらの使用が高まるにつれて三角帽が、女性には独特のフォンタンジュという頭飾りがかぶられた。ロココ時代になると男性は前代の被り物を踏襲したが、女性の被り物は頭巾形に一変する一方、かつらが法外に巨大化してくる。フランス革命後はシルクハットが多くなり、女性ではボンネット形の帽子が全盛になる。20世紀になると山高帽、ソフト帽、鳥打帽（ハンチング）などが男性にかぶられたが、第二次世界大戦後は無帽主義が一般化する。他方、女性は盛装時ほど帽子をかぶる習慣があり、それだけにデザインも多様化するが、しかし、戦後の無帽主義は女性にも及んで今日に至っている。

［石山　彰］

『遠藤武著『近世姿態冊子』（『被服文化』18号所収・1952・文化出版局）』▽『喜多川守貞著『類聚近世風俗志』復刻版（1934・更生閣）』▽『R. Turner WilcoxThe Mode in Hats and Headdress (1945, Charles Scribner's Sons, New York)』