Long and thin

A type of court noble clothing. Worn by people from infancy to youth. As its name suggests, it is a garment made to be slim and long. The Pillow Book states, "The name of the garment should also include 'Hosonaga'." The Hosonaga worn by young boys in the early modern period as formal clothing has a collar with a board-shaped collar, fastened with white braided cord, a single-width body, and wide sleeves with no seams at the sides, in the style of a kariginu. A drawing of what appears to be this Hosonaga is found in the Diary of Murasaki Shikibu. The Hosonaga worn by young girls in the early modern period is a long, wide-sleeved top similar to an uchiki, but without an ookumi (hem). The Masasuke Costume Collection states, "Hosonagato means a thin, long, thin silk garment without a large hem." In the Heian period, people would wear a kimono over their uchiki, but sometimes they would wear a kouchigi over it. The Tale of Genji (Yadorigi) states, "A thick uchiki is topped with a kouchigi of a long, thin, young seedling color, resembling a dianthus." The texture is thin, such as twill, floating fabric, or rakoku. The colors are often layered with red plum, cherry blossom, Japanese yarrow, wisteria, and blue-black.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

公家(くげ)衣服の一種。幼年から若年までの者が用いた。その名のとおり、身を細く丈長く仕立てた衣。『枕草子(まくらのそうし)』に「衣の名に細長をばさもいひつべし」とある。近世の幼少男子が式服として用いた細長は、襟が盤領(あげくび)で、白組紐(くみひも)で留め、身頃(みごろ)が一幅(ひとの)、脇(わき)を縫わずにあけた広袖(ひろそで)の狩衣(かりぎぬ)形式。『紫式部日記』にこの細長と思われるものが描かれている。近世の幼少女子が用いた細長は、袿(うちき)に似た身丈長く広袖形式の上着であるが大領(おおくび)（衽(おくみ)）のない衣。『雅亮(まさすけ)装束抄』に「ほそながといふはれいのきぬのおほくびなき也(なり)」とある。平安時代には日常、袿の上に襲(かさ)ねて着たが、その上にさらに小袿(こうちぎ)を襲ねることもあった。『源氏物語』（宿木(やどりぎ)）に「濃き袿に撫子(なでしこ)とおぼしき細長、若苗(わかなえ)色の小袿きたり」とある。地質は綾(あや)、浮織物や羅縠(らこく)などの薄物。色は紅梅、桜、山吹、藤(ふじ)、青鈍(あおにび)などの襲色目(かさねいろめ)としたものがみられる。

［高田倭男］

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