Visiting kimono - Homongi

A type of long kimono for women, used as semi-formal attire. It is a formal kimono with a patterned pattern worn when formally visiting other families, or at banquets, theater, etc. In the Meiji period, formal attire consisted of a plain kimono with a family crest and a patterned hem, layered with matching undergarments. In the Taisho period, as social occasions for women expanded, casual yet glamorous social attire was sold to meet demand, and in the Showa period, this became popular under the name Homongi. Fabrics used include crepe, rinzu, and in summer, ro. Undergarments are not layered, and have a curved hem (often the hem is the same color as the outer layer). Patterns include all-over patterns, hem patterns, and patterns on the chest, shoulders, and hem. There is also a type called furi-chigai, which has patterns on the right back sleeve and the left front sleeve. In addition to dyed fabrics, casual attire with woven patterns in the style of eba-style patterns can also be seen in omeshi and tsumugi. Until the beginning of the Showa period, three or one crests were dyed or sewn, but nowadays they are almost always crestless, and the sleeves are shorter and more airy than those of furisode. The tsukesage is an even more simplified version of the homongi.

[Kazuko Okano]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

女物長着の一種で、準礼装として用いる。正式に他家を訪問するとき、また宴会、観劇などのおりに着る絵羽(えば)模様の晴れ着。明治時代の礼装は紋付、裾(すそ)模様の無垢(むく)仕立てに、対(つい)下着を重ねた。大正期になり女性の社交の場が広がると、需要に応じて格式ばらずに華やかさのある社交服が売り出され、昭和に入ると、これが訪問着という名で一般に普及した。生地(きじ)は縮緬(ちりめん)、綸子(りんず)、夏には絽(ろ)などが用いられ、下着は重ねず、変り裾（表と同色の裾回しが多い）をつける。柄づけには総模様、裾模様、胸肩と裾に模様を入れたものがある。また、振り違いといって、右後ろ袖(そで)と左前袖に模様を置いたものもある。染物のほか、お召、紬(つむぎ)などに、絵羽風の模様を織り出した略装もみられる。昭和の初めまでは、三つ紋、一つ紋の染め抜きか、縫い紋をつけたが、現在はほとんど無紋で、袖丈(そでたけ)も振袖より短く、軽快である。付け下げは訪問着をさらに簡略化したものである。

［岡野和子］

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例