Fold - Flat

It is a type of mo, a type of clothing worn by the aristocracy. Men's mo was worn around the waist over hakama, while women's mo was worn over kun. The Nihon Shoki, in the section for the 13th year of the reign of Empress Suiko (605), states that "the Crown Prince, kings, and ministers were ordered to wear mo," and the short skirt-like garment on the male statue in the Tenjukokushucho embroidery screen at Chuguji Temple is thought to be the mo. In the 11th year of Emperor Tenmu's reign (682), it was written that "pleats" were to be worn, but it was abolished for a time. However, the Yoro Clothing Order states that the Crown Prince should wear deep purple gauze, the Prince and other Kings should wear deep green gauze, the Ministers should wear deep indigo gauze, the Princess and the Queen should wear light green gauze, and the Inner Lady should wear light indigo gauze. After the Heian period, women no longer had the opportunity to wear formal attire, and it is known from The Tale of Genji that pleats were sometimes called "shibira" and worn over the skirt of the court lady's attire.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

貴族階級の衣服で、裳(も)の一種。男子の褶は袴(はかま)の上から腰にまとい、女子の褶は裙(くん)の上に着装した。『日本書紀』推古(すいこ)天皇13年（605）の条に「皇太子、諸王、諸臣に命じて褶を着(き)しむ」とあり、中宮寺の天寿国繍帳(てんじゅこくしゅうちょう)男子像の短いスカート状のものが褶にあたると考えられる。天武(てんむ)天皇11年（682）に「褶なせそ」とあり、一時廃せられたが、養老(ようろう)の衣服令(りょう)で、礼服に皇太子が深紫紗褶(ふかむらさきしゃのひらみ)、親王と諸王が深緑紗褶、諸臣が深縹(はなだ)紗褶、内親王と女王が浅緑褶、内命婦(ないみょうぶ)が浅縹褶を用いるとしている。平安時代以降、女子は礼服を着用する機会がなくなり、褶を「しびら」と称して女房装束の裳の上に重ねて着る場合もあったことが『源氏物語』によって知られる。

［高田倭男］

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