Single - Hitoe

A type of clothing worn by nobles. Abbreviation of hitoeginu. Since the Heian period, hitoe is a type of garment worn over bare skin or undergarments, with a hanging sleeve and wide sleeves. There are distinctions between men and women, and hitoe for men is almost the same style as akome, but it is short in length and the sides are not sewn in. In terms of the material, for sokutai and ikokan, those of rank 5 or higher were required to wear crimson shigebishi or toobishi aya, while those of rank 6 or lower were required to wear plain silk. For noshi and kariginu, twill or plain silk of a preferred color other than forbidden colors was used. Hitoe for women is the same style as uchiki and kome, but the sleeves and length are slightly longer and the sides are sewn in. In terms of the nature of the material, those of rank 5 or higher used twill and plain silk in winter, and in summer, they used raw twill, raw plain silk, as well as thin fabrics such as ra, koku, and sha. The patterns of twill and plain silk were Shigebishi, Tobishi, Saiwaibishi, etc. The colors were those of preference other than the forbidden colors, or layered colors. There was also a style of clothing called hitoe gasane, in which women wore several single-layered garments layered on top of each other in midsummer.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

公家(くげ)衣服の一種。単衣(ひとえぎぬ)の略。平安時代以降、素肌または肌着の上に着用した単仕立て・垂領(たりくび)、広袖(ひろそで)形式の衣。男女の別があり、男子の単は袙(あこめ)とほぼ同型で、身丈が短く、脇(わき)を縫い付けない衣。その地質は、束帯(そくたい)や衣冠の場合、五位以上の者に紅(くれない)の繁菱(しげびし)または遠菱(とおびし)の綾(あや)、六位以下の者に平絹を用いるとした。直衣(のうし)や狩衣(かりぎぬ)の場合、禁色(きんじき)以外の好みの色の綾や平絹が用いられた。女子の単は袿(うちき)や袙と同型であるが、裄(ゆき)や身丈がやや長めで、脇を縫い付けてある。その地質は、冬に五位以上の者が綾や平絹、夏に生(き)綾、生平絹のほか羅(ら)、縠(こく)、紗(しゃ)などの薄物(うすもの)を用いた。綾や縠などの文様は繁菱、遠菱、幸菱(さいわいびし)など。その色は禁色以外の好みのものや、襲色目(かさねいろめ)によるものとしている。なお、単襲(ひとえがさね)といって、女子が盛夏に、単仕立ての衣を数領かさねて着装する服装も行われた。

［高田倭男］

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