White paper - Hakucho

A type of official clothing worn by lower-ranking government officials from the Heian period onwards. The jacket and hakama are a pair made of white linen. The jacket is of the Ao style, has the same shape as the kariginu (hunting clothes), is one piece, and is open at the sides without being sewn together. The hakama is small and made in four widths, with a narrow hem. Both the jacket and hakama are made in a single piece throughout the summer and winter. Shirabari means white linen that has been stiffened with starch, and the sliding doors made from this fabric were also called Shirabari. It was worn by the court's kodoneri (minor servants), the carriage attendants and torch bearers of the nobles and samurai families. These people were also called Shirabari (Hakucho) and wore black hats and straw sandals.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

平安時代以降、下級官人が着用した公服の一種。上着と袴(はかま)が白麻布製で対(つい)になっており、上着は襖(あお)系で、狩衣(かりぎぬ)と同じ形の盤領(あげくび)、身一幅で脇(わき)を縫い合わさずあけられている。袴は四幅(よの)仕立ての小形で、裾(すそ)をすぼめるくくり袴。上着、袴とも夏冬通じて単(ひとえ)仕立てである。白張とは糊(のり)をつけて張りをもたせた白麻布という意味で、その生地(きじ)でつくった襖をも白張とよんだ。宮廷の小舎人(こどねり)、公家(くげ)や武家の供人(ともびと)の車副(くるまぞえ)や松明(たいまつ)持ちなどが着た。また、そういう人々をも白張（白丁）といい、この姿には烏帽子(えぼし)をかぶり、草鞋(そうかい)を履いた。

［高田倭男］

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