Embroidery foil - Nuihaku

Japanese: 繡箔 - ぬいはく

It is also written as nuihaku, but in Noh costumes only the character nuihaku is used. It is a dyed and woven item decorated with embroidery and surihaku. It is thought that the combination of both techniques was already used in the Heian period, mainly in the costumes of ladies-in-waiting, but the oldest examples date from the end of the Muromachi period to the early Momoyama period. For example, "Kosode with Embroidered Foil and Design of Four Seasons Flowers" (Important Cultural Property, Kyoto National Museum) has seasonal plants such as plum, wisteria, chrysanthemum, and bamboo grass embroidered on it, with gold leaf printed on the spaces between the patterns. "Kosode with Waterfowl Design of Snow-embroidered Reeds" (Important Cultural Property, Okayama Museum of Art) has gold and silver leaf printed on the spaces between the embroidered patterns.

Source: Heibonsha World Encyclopedia, 2nd Edition Information

Japanese:

縫箔とも書き，能装束では縫箔の文字のみを使う。刺繡（ししゆう）と摺箔（すりはく）で加飾された染織品。両技法の併用は，すでに平安時代に女房装束などを中心に行われたと考えられるが，古例の遺品は室町時代末から桃山時代初期のものである。たとえば《四季草花文様繡箔小袖》(重要文化財，京都国立博物館)は梅，藤，菊，雪持笹と四季の植物を繡（ぬ）い，文様の地間に金箔を捺（お）す。また《雪持葭に水禽文様小袖》(重要文化財，岡山美術館)は繡文様の間隙に金銀の箔を摺（す）る。

出典　株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典第２版について　情報

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