Narrow Haori - Narrow Haori

…Haori was treated as casual attire because it was worn over clothing temporarily, and was not used by high-ranking warriors in formal occasions. Warriors below the rank of Omemie wore it instead of Kataginu. After the Kan'ei period (1624-44), wearing a crested haori with hakama became formal attire, but only village officials such as village headmen and village headmen were allowed to wear it, and townspeople mainly wore a hanten called a kyukutsu haori. After the Meiji period, hitatare and kamishimo were abolished, and the formal attire for men became a plain black haori with five crests and hakama, which continues to this day. …

*Some of the terminology that refers to "Kyokutsu Haori" is listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…羽織は一時的に衣服の上に着るところから略装として扱われ，上級者は正式の場には用いず，御目見（おめみえ）以下の武士が肩衣（かたぎぬ）の代りに着た。寛永(1624‐44)以後，紋付羽織を袴とともに用いるのを礼装としたが，庄屋や名主などの村役以外は許されず，町人はもっぱら窮屈（きゆうくつ）羽織と呼ぶはんてんを使用した。明治以降，直垂（ひたたれ）や裃（かみしも）の廃止によって，男子の和服の礼装は黒無地五つ紋付羽織袴となり現在にいたる。…

※「窮屈羽織」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第２版について | 情報