Superiors and subordinates - Kamishimoyaku

...Kamishimo that is not made of the same fabric for the top and bottom is called katagi hakama or tsugigami shimo, and is a civilian garment. Originally, kamishimo was official clothing for lower-ranking officers such as kamishimoyaku (rank officers) below the rank of omemie, and those below were not allowed to wear kamishimo, calling it haori hakama duty. Gradually, however, this rule was relaxed, and eventually even commoners began to wear kamishimo and carry small swords when appearing in public for ceremonial occasions. With the reform of dress code in the Meiji period, kamishimo ceased to be used as official clothing, and haori hakama replaced it in Japanese clothing.

*Some of the terminology that refers to "superiors" is listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…裃で上と下の共布でないものは肩衣袴，もしくは継裃（つぎがみしも）とよばれ，これは平服である。裃は元来御目見（おめみえ）以下の上下役（かみしもやく）という下士までの公服で，それ以下のものは羽織袴勤めと称して裃の着用は許されなかったが，後しだいにこのきまりがゆるんで，ついには庶民でも冠婚葬祭に裃に小刀を帯びて人前へ出るようなことになった。明治にはいって服装の改正とともに公服としては用いられることがなくなり，和服では羽織袴がこれにかわることとなった。…

※「上下役」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第２版について | 情報