Kamikochi

Japanese: 上高地 - かみこうち

Located in the mid-west of Nagano Prefecture, this is the center of tourism in the Northern Alps. It is part of Matsumoto City. It is part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park and has been designated as a special protected area, special scenic spot, and special natural monument, and is known as one of Japan's leading mountain tourist destinations, with special protection given to its outstanding natural scenery.

[Hiroyoshi Kobayashi]

Nature

This small basin was formed by the Azusa River, which flows down from the southeast of Mount Yari. The eruption of Mount Yakedake caused the erosion base level to rise, making the gradient of the Azusa River extremely gentle around here, and as a result, sand and gravel from upstream accumulated, forming a small flat area at the bottom of the valley. There are also scattered lakes and marshes such as Myojin Pond, Tashiro Pond, and Taisho Pond. The northwest side of this small basin is dominated by the mountain ridge that continues from the Yari-Hotaka mountain range to Mount Yakedake, and on the southeast side, 2,500-2,600 meter-class mountains such as Mount Roppyakusan and Mount Kasumizawadake form cliffs that approach the basin. As a result, the basin forms a spindle shape running from northeast to southwest, with the Azusa River running along its long axis. The basin has an average altitude of 1,500 meters and is surrounded by high mountains, and is blessed with natural beauty such as the clear waters of the Azusa River. Due to its high altitude, the temperature is also low, averaging 5°C per year and rarely exceeding 20°C even during the middle of summer. In recent years, heavy rains have caused sediment to flow from upstream and the surrounding mountainsides, reaching an estimated 60,000 cubic meters in average years and as much as 200,000 cubic meters in peak years. This has caused the riverbed of the Azusa River that flows through the basin to rise, higher than the footpaths on both banks, raising the risk that the current landscape will no longer be able to be maintained if things continue as they are.

[Hiroyoshi Kobayashi]

history

There are several theories about the name Kamikochi, including that it was named Kamikawachi because of its mystical quality, or that it originated from Kamikawachi, meaning the upper reaches of a river. According to historical documents, the Matsumoto Domain's official geographical guidebook "Shinpu Touki," written in the Kyoho era (1716-1736) in the mid-modern period, lists it as Kamikawachi, and as this continued until the Kansei era (1789-1801), Kamikawachi was likely the original name. Documents from that time show that it was changed to Kamikochi around the Bunka and Bunsei eras (1804-1830).

The development of Kamikochi began with the felling of timber for the Matsumoto Domain. This area was the territory of the Matsumoto Domain in the early modern period, and there are records of timber being removed from the domain during the Kyoho era, so it is believed that felling began before that. As a result, by the end of the Edo period, almost all of the trees on the plains had been cut down, leaving the area a vast wilderness. In 1884 (Meiji 17), local villagers from Azumi Village (now Matsumoto City) obtained permission to use the area as a ranch, renting approximately 80 chobu (approximately 793,600 square meters) from the current Tokuzawaen Garden to Taisho Pond, and grazed their cattle and horses. This ranch era continued until 1934 (Showa 9), when Kamikochi Ranch existed. The following year, the ranch was abolished to protect the forest, and the trees of Kamikochi, which had been nearly clear-cut at the end of the Edo period, have taken on their present appearance through natural and artificial reforestation.

[Hiroyoshi Kobayashi]

Mountaineering and transportation

It is believed that loggers from the Matsumoto domain began entering the mountain in the early Edo period, but the first person to enter for the purpose of mountain climbing was the monk Banryu Shonin from Ecchu, Toyama, who climbed Mount Yari for religious reasons in 1828 (Bunsei 11). In the 1870s, British metallurgical engineer W. Gowland entered in 1878 (Meiji 11), followed by British missionary W. Weston in 1891, and around the same time, members of the Japanese Land Survey Department and mountaineer Kojima Usui also entered the mountain. Kamikochi's mountain trail had an Shimashimadani route over Tokumoto Pass for the purpose of logging, which was renovated into a forest road six feet (about 1.8 meters) wide in 1891 and used as the main road until September 1933 (Showa 8). However, with the opening of roads along the Azusa River valley (National Route 158, etc.), the number of users decreased. However, people who want to enjoy the scenery of the mountains surrounding Kamikochi still walk over Tokumoto Pass. Currently, the only way to enter Kamikochi along the Azusa River is by bus, taxi, or on foot (private car restrictions: all year round). Private cars must be parked at the parking lots at Sawando or Hirayu and then transferred to a shuttle bus to enter the mountain.

[Hiroyoshi Kobayashi]

Scenic spots

Starting from the upper reaches, there is Myojin Pond, located just below Mt. Myojin. About an hour's walk upstream from Kappa Bridge, the center of Kamikochi, there is the Okumiya Shrine of Hotaka Shrine, where the Ofune ritual is held in early October. Nearby is the Kamonji hut of Kamijo Kamonji, a guide who contributed greatly to the development of Kamikochi, but most of it has been renovated and only a small part of its original form remains. Kappa Bridge is located in the center of Kamikochi, and was named after Akutagawa Ryunosuke, who climbed the Northern Alps in 1920 (Taisho 9) and published "Kappa" based on his experiences there. At the time, it was a log bridge, but it was converted into a suspension bridge in 1935 (Showa 10), and the current bridge is the fifth in its kind. On both sides of the bridge are hotels, restaurants, Kamikochi Onsen, and other facilities, and the area is crowded with people in the height of summer in late July. The mountain range of Okuhotaka seen from the bridge and the Chou-nagi, Japanese white birch and larch trees on both banks of the Azusa River are typical scenery of Kamikochi, and the view of Mt. Yakedake from the bridge in mid-October when the larch trees turn red in autumn is magnificent. On the right bank of the Azusa River there is a monument commemorating Weston, and the Weston Festival is held in early June. Taisho Pond is at the entrance to the Kamikochi Basin, and along with Kappa Bridge it is one of Kamikochi's most famous scenic spots. The pond was created in 1915 when the Azusa River was dammed by the eruption of Mt. Yakedake. Initially the pond was filled with dead trees and was a fantastical looking pond, but successive inflows of sediment have caused it to become as narrow as a river.

[Hiroyoshi Kobayashi]

"Kamikochi" (1964, Hobundo) ▽ "Kamikochi Development History, Volumes 1-4, written and published by Yokoyama Atsumi (1966-1969)" ▽ "My Map of Japan 2, Kamikochi Area, written by Miyamoto Tsuneichi (1967, Doyukan)" ▽ "Kamikochi Development History, written by Yokoyama Atsumi (1971, Yama-to-Keikoku-sha)"

[References] | Azumi | Kamikochi Onsen

Azusa River and Kappa Bridge
Kappabashi Bridge is a wooden suspension bridge over the Azusa River and is one of the symbols of Kamikochi. The surrounding area is known as Kamikochi Ginza, and is crowded with hikers and tourists in the summer. It is a scenic spot where you can see the Hotaka mountain range right before your eyes. Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture ©Shogakukan ">

Azusa River and Kappa Bridge

Taisho Pond
This pond was created when the Azusa River was dammed up by the massive eruption of Mt. Yakedake in 1915 (Taisho 4). The majestic Hotaka mountain range is reflected on the water's surface. It is one of the most representative views of Kamikochi. Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture ©Shogakukan ">

Taisho Pond

Myojin Pond (Matsumoto City)
A small lake at the foot of Mt. Myojin, upstream of Kappabashi Bridge. It is included in Chubu Sangaku National Park. It consists of two ponds, Ichinoike and Ninoike, and is a sacred area with the Okumiya of Hotaka Shrine enshrined on its banks. The Mifune Shinto Ceremony is held here every year on October 8th. Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture © Shinshu-Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Myojin Pond (Matsumoto City)

Mount Yake
An active volcano rising 2,455m above sea level to the west of Kamikochi. It is also called Mt. Iou and is also known as the "incense burner of the Alps." It is located on the border between Nagano and Gifu prefectures and belongs to the Chubu Sangaku National Park. In the foreground of the photo is Taisho Pond. Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture / Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture © Shinshu-Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Mount Yake

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

長野県の中西部、北アルプス観光の中心地。松本市(まつもとし)に属する。中部山岳国立公園に属し、特別保護地区、特別名勝、特別天然記念物などに指定され、優れた自然景観に特別の保護が加えられ、日本の代表的山岳観光地として知られる。

［小林寛義］

自然

槍ヶ岳(やりがたけ)の南東から流下する梓川(あずさがわ)によって形成された小盆地で、焼岳(やけだけ)の噴出によって侵食基準面が上昇したため、梓川の勾配(こうばい)がこのあたりできわめて緩やかになり、その結果上流よりの砂礫(されき)が堆積(たいせき)して谷底に小平坦(へいたん)地を形成したものである。明神(みょうじん)池、田代(たしろ)池、大正池などの湖沼も点在する。この小盆地の北西側は、槍・穂高(ほたか)連峰から焼岳に続く山稜(さんりょう)が迫り、南東側には六百山(ろっぴゃくざん)、霞沢岳(かすみざわだけ)など2500～2600メートル級の山が絶壁状をなして盆地に迫っている。このため、盆地は北東から南西方向の紡錘状をなし、梓川はその長軸のようなかっこうになっている。盆地の平均高度は1500メートルで、周囲が高峻(こうしゅん)な山岳に囲まれ、梓川の清流など自然の美に恵まれている。気温も高所のため低く、年平均5℃、盛夏の日中でも20℃を超えることは珍しい。近年、上流および周囲の山腹より豪雨のたびに土砂が流入し、平年の推定で6万立方メートル、多い年には20万立方メートルにも達し、このため盆地を流れる梓川の河床が高まり、両岸の遊歩道より高くなり、このままでは現在の景観を維持できなくなるおそれが出てきた。

［小林寛義］

歴史

上高地の名称については、神秘性のゆえに神河内であるとか、川の上流を意味する上河内から由来したなどの説がある。文献によれば、近世中期の享保(きょうほう)年間（1716～1736）に書かれた松本藩の官撰(かんせん)地誌『信府統記』に上河内とあり、これが寛政(かんせい)年間（1789～1801）まで続くので、上河内が最初の名称であろう。これが上高地に変わったのは、文化・文政時代（1804～1830）ごろからであることが当時の文書でわかる。

　上高地の開発は、松本藩の木材伐採から始まった。ここは近世松本藩領で、藩では享保年間に木材が搬出された記録があるから、それ以前から伐採は始められていたものと思われる。この結果、幕末にはほとんど平地の木は伐(き)り尽くされ、一面の原野になった。1884年（明治17）地元安曇村（現、松本市）の村民は、ここを牧場とする許可を得て、現在の徳沢園から大正池までのおよそ80町歩（約79万3600平方メートル）を借り牛馬を放牧した。この牧場時代が1934年（昭和9）まで続き、同年まで上高地牧場があった。翌年以降森林保護のため牧場が廃止され、幕末いったん皆伐に近い状態になった上高地の樹木が、天然や人工造林により今日の姿になった。

［小林寛義］

登山と交通

松本藩の伐採人が入山したのは江戸前期ごろからと推定されるが、登山を目的とした入山では、1828年（文政11）越中(えっちゅう)富山出身の播隆上人(ばんりゅうしょうにん)が信仰のため槍ヶ岳へ登頂したのが最初である。明治10年代には、イギリス人冶金(やきん)技師W・ガウランドが1878年（明治11）に、そして1891年にはイギリス人宣教師W・ウェストンが入り、同時にこのころ日本の陸地測量部員や登山家小島烏水(こじまうすい)らも入山した。上高地登山道は伐木搬出のため早くから徳本峠(とくごうとうげ)越えの島々谷(しましまだに)ルートがあり、1891年幅6尺（約1.8メートル）の林道に改修され、この道が1933年（昭和8）9月まで本道として利用されていたが、梓川渓谷沿いの車道（国道158号など）の開業とともに利用者は少なくなった。しかし、上高地を巡る山々の景観を味わおうとする人々はいまもこの徳本峠越えの道を歩く。現在、梓川ぞいに上高地へ入るには、路線認可をうけたバス、タクシー、または徒歩によるほかはない（マイカー規制：通年）。自家用車は沢渡(さわんど)、または平湯(ひらゆ)の駐車場に停め、シャトルバスに乗り換えての入山となる。

［小林寛義］

名勝地

上流からおもなものをあげると、明神岳(みょうじんだけ)直下に明神池がある。上高地の中心河童(かっぱ)橋より徒歩約1時間の上流で、穂高神社の奥宮があり、10月初旬に御船(おふね)神事がある。この近くに上高地開発に尽くしたガイド上条嘉門次(かみじょうかもんじ)の嘉門次小屋があるが、大部分改修し、当時の姿はわずかしかない。河童橋は上高地の中心部で、1920年（大正9）芥川龍之介(あくたがわりゅうのすけ)が北アルプスに登り、そのときの経験で『河童』を発表したところから名づけられた。当時は丸太橋で1935年（昭和10）に釣り橋になり、現在のは5代目である。この両岸にはホテルや飲食店、上高地温泉などがあり、7月下旬の盛夏は雑踏する。橋上からみる奥穂高の山容や梓川両岸のケショウヤナギ、シラカンバ、カラマツの木々は上高地の代表的景観で、カラマツが紅葉する10月中旬橋からの焼岳の眺望はすばらしい。梓川の右岸にはウェストンを記念する碑があり、6月初旬にウェストン祭が行われる。大正池は上高地盆地の入口にあたり、河童橋とともに上高地の代表的名勝地。1915年焼岳の噴出物で梓川がせき止められてできた池で、当初は池中に枯れ木が立ち、幻想的な池であったが、相次ぐ土砂の流入で川のように狭くなってしまった。

［小林寛義］

『『上高地』（1964・朋文堂）』▽『横山篤美著・刊『上高地開発史　その1～4』（1966～1969）』▽『宮本常一著『私の日本地図2　上高地付近』（1967・同友館）』▽『横山篤美著『上高地開発史』（1971・山と渓谷社）』

[参照項目] | 安曇 | 上高地温泉

梓川と河童橋

大正池

明神池〈松本市〉

焼岳

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例

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