Ueda Tsumugi

Japanese: 上田紬 - うえだつむぎ
Ueda Tsumugi

This is a type of tsumugi fabric made in the Ueda, Sarashina, Chiisagata, and Hanishina regions of Nagano Prefecture, especially in the upper reaches of the Chikuma River, and is called Ueda tsumugi because Ueda was the center of distribution. Historically, it was introduced as early as the Kanbun era (1661-1673), and as Japanese silk production developed from the mid-Edo period, it became popular as a side job for farmers, using the waste cocoons and balls of silkworms produced by sericulture, reaching its peak during the Tenpo era (1830-1844), and later the Matsushiro domain established the Ueda Products Exchange to promote further development. As the Bankin Sugiwaibukuro states, "The one that came out of Ueda in the old days was extremely strong, with both warp and weft threads," this was a representative example of sturdy tsumugi. The textile material was originally dupioni thread, but now raw silk is used for the warp and tsumugi thread (mostly machine-woven) for the weft. Some are hand-woven on high-speed looms, but most are woven on power looms. Stripes are common in the patterns, and kasuri patterns are also woven, but this fabric is used as a kimono fabric for everyday wear.

[Kadoyama Yukihiro]

Ueda Tsumugi
©Shinshu Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association ">

Ueda Tsumugi


Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

長野県上田地方、更科(さらしな)、小県(ちいさがた)、埴科(はにしな)地方、とくに千曲(ちくま)川上流地帯でつくられる紬織物で、上田を集散地としたため上田紬と称する。歴史的には古く寛文(かんぶん)年間(1661~73)に伝えられ、江戸中期ごろから和糸生産の発展につれ、養蚕から生じる屑繭(くずまゆ)、玉繭(たままゆ)を利用し、農家の副業として盛んになり、最盛期は天保(てんぽう)年間(1830~44)で、のち松代(まつしろ)藩が上田産物会所(さんぶつかいしょ)を設けて発展を図った。『万金産業袋(ばんきんすぎわいぶくろ)』には「そのむかし上田より出たるは、たて横紬にて至極(しごく)つよし」とあるように、じょうぶな紬としての代表であった。繊維材料は、もと玉糸を使ったが、現在では経糸(たていと)に生糸、緯糸(よこいと)に紬糸(多くは機械を使用する)を使い、一部に高機(たかばた)による手織りもあるが、力織機によるものが多くなっている。柄は縞(しま)が多く、絣(かすり)も織られているが、普段着向きの着尺地として使用される。

[角山幸洋]

上田紬
©信州・長野県観光協会">

上田紬


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