Chef - Itamae

A chef who worked in restaurants, which became common in the 19th century. In the Kansai region, they are called itaba. Originally, it referred to a seasoned chef in the kitchen. In the 15th century, chefs who cooked fish and poultry, called houchoushi, were employed at banquets in front of guests, and several schools of raw food cooking methods were established. Also, chosai, a chef who cooked vegetarian food, became kizamisakanashi in the 17th century. In the 18th century, houchoushi adopted the techniques of kizamisakanashi and became the ones responsible for all cooking. The name itamae comes from the fact that they are in front of the cutting board. Chefs either opened their own restaurant or were employed by a restaurant, and in any case, they were employed as resident chefs. There were several skill levels due to the apprenticeship system, and the workplace was regulated by the room system. The chef's temperament was to use one sashimi knife and two yanagiba knives wrapped in a purple crepe cloth and not to use anyone else's. Even in modern times, Japanese cuisine has maintained its techniques through this kind of organization and awareness. Due to the influence of Western cuisine, the work changed from a seated job to a standing job. In modern times, a chef is legally considered a chef along with a Western cuisine craftsman (cook).

[Motoo Endo]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

19世紀に多くなった料理屋の料理職人のこと。関西では板場(いたば)と称する。もともとは年季を積んだ料理場での差配役のことであった。15世紀に生まれた庖丁師(ほうちょうし)という魚鳥を料理する職人は宴会の席で客の前で料理する出職(でしょく)であり、なま物の料理法にいくつかの流派ができた。また、精進(しょうじん)物の料理職人の調菜(ちょうさい)は17世紀には刻肴師(きざみさかなし)となった。18世紀には庖丁師は刻肴師の技術を取り入れ、いっさいの料理の担い手となった。板前とは、まな板の前にいるからである。板前は自分で店を開くか、料理屋に雇われるか、とにかく居職(いじょく)となった。徒弟制による幾段かの技術階層、部屋制による職場の規制があった。刺身包丁一つに柳刃二つを紫縮緬(むらさきちりめん)の袱紗(ふくさ)に包み、他人のものは使わないというのが板前気質であった。近代でも、日本料理はこうした組織と意識によって技術が保持されていた。西洋料理の影響により、座業から立ち作業となった。現代では法律上、西洋料理職人（コック）とともに調理師となった。

［遠藤元男］

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例