Kaiseki

It is a light dish that warms the stomach in the same way as warming the stomach with a heated stone (onjaku), and stave off hunger. Zen Buddhism became popular during the Kamakura period, but Zen monks had strict rules and were not allowed to eat in the afternoon. Since the body could not cope with going for a long period of time without eating, they decided to eat rice porridge in the evening and other light meals, which came to be called kaiseki. Onjaku is a heated stone that is placed in a pocket and used to warm the body.

At that time, tea ceremony was combined with the uniquely Japanese tea ceremony, which was also popular, and a dish called chakaiseki was created. However, it is safe to say that it was not particularly extravagant in the Kamakura period. In the mid-Muromachi period, during the Toyama period of Ashikaga Yoshimasa, cooking made great strides, with the Shijo, Okusa, Ikama, and Shinshi schools becoming famous. The tea ceremony also saw a remarkable leap forward, and excellent cooking and tea ceremony were combined, and the basis of the new tea kaiseki cuisine was created during this period. However, tea kaiseki cuisine was originally simple, amateur cooking, so it was still simple and practical compared to the honzen cuisine that was created in the same period as luxurious, authentic cuisine. Kaiseki cuisine is served with rice, soup, sashimi, and a bowl for each person, and the other dishes are served on a single dish and each person takes their own portion. In the old style, rice and sake were served together and arranged according to the customer's preference. The principle of kaiseki cuisine is to use high-quality ingredients, and hot dishes are served while they are still hot, and cold dishes are served without getting hot. This idea has not changed even today.

For tea ceremony, a flat tray with no legs called an oshiki is used. A small amount of rice is placed in the lacquer tea bowl on the left, and soup is poured into the soup bowl on the right, which is placed in front. Raw fish is placed in a ceramic dish called Omokko behind. Chopsticks, called Rikyu chopsticks, which can be used on both ends and made of cedar, are placed in front of the guests. At first, lacquer sake cups are used. Refills of soup are offered to the guests as desired. Next, the simmered food is placed in lacquerware stew bowls and distributed to the guests. After this, ceramic sake cups are brought out, and guests are free to drink sake from them, and may eat rice if they wish. The food served after this is all arranged in a single dish, and guests eat it by scooping it onto the lid of the dish on the oshiki. In addition to this, strong side dishes are served. This dish is so named because it is served as a urging for the customer to eat a little more, and is often served with a salad or vinegared dish. Sometimes another side dish is added after the strong dish, or the strong dish may be called the strong side dish. The next small soup is called hashiarai, and is lightly flavored. Traditionally, two types of sake side dishes were served in the hassun, but nowadays many different dishes are included. Finally, pickles and a yutou (a bucket of hot water) are served.

Kaiseki cuisine requires the use of fresh, high-quality seasonal ingredients, and cooking methods that are suited to them. In principle, it is prepared in the anteroom of the tea ceremony, but nowadays this is often not possible. There are also set times for tea ceremonies, and appropriate food must be served accordingly. There are dawn tea ceremonies held early in the morning on cold winter days, morning tea ceremonies at 5-6am in summer, and the fairly common midday tea ceremonies. There are also evening tea ceremonies held from twilight to night in winter. Kaiseki cuisine requires food to be prepared that is suited to each season and time. Appropriate tableware must also be prepared. Nowadays, Japanese cuisine called kaiseki cuisine is considered the highest quality Japanese cuisine, and it is often prepared in specialized restaurants. In terms of content, the original form of tea kaiseki has become quite diluted, and food that is somewhat removed from the spirit of harmony, respect, purity, and tranquility of the tea ceremony is sometimes served under the name of tea kaiseki. On the other hand, authentic tea ceremony kaiseki cuisine is also popular among experts and those involved in the tea ceremony.

[Tetsunosuke Tada]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

温石(おんじゃく)で腹を温めるのと同程度に腹中を温め、空腹をしのぐ軽い料理。鎌倉時代に禅宗が盛んになったが、禅僧は戒律が厳しく、午後になると食事をとってはならないことになっていた。長時間全然食事をとらないと体がもたないので、晩粥(ばんがゆ)そのほか軽い食事をとることにして、これを懐石と称した。温石とは石を温めたもので、懐中に入れ、体を温めるための用具である。

　当時、同じく盛んになった日本独自の茶道と結び付いて、茶懐石と名づける料理ができた。しかし鎌倉時代には、さほど豪華なものではなかったとみてよかろう。室町中期、足利義政(あしかがよしまさ)の東山時代には料理道が大躍進し、四条流、大草流、生間(いかま)流、進士流などが名のりをあげた。茶道の飛躍も目覚ましく、優れた料理道と茶道が結び付いて、新しい内容の茶懐石料理の基本がこの時代にできあがったのである。しかし、茶懐石の料理は元来簡素な素人(しろうと)料理であるから、同時代に豪華本格料理として生まれた本膳(ほんぜん)料理に比べれば、やはり簡素でしかも実質的なものであった。懐石料理は、飯、汁、刺身、椀(わん)盛りを一人前ずつ出し、それ以外の料理は一つの食器に盛り込んであるのを、めいめいに取り分けるのである。古い形式では、飯と酒をいっしょに出し、客の好みに応じて供していた。懐石料理はよい材料を用いるのが原則であり、温かい料理は冷めぬうちに、冷たい料理は温めないように供する。いまもその考え方は変わっていない。

　茶懐石には折敷(おしき)といって、脚のない平膳(ひらぜん)を用いる。左の漆器の茶椀に飯を少々盛り、右の汁椀に汁を入れて手前に並べる。向こうには、お向こうの名の陶磁器に生魚(なまざかな)を盛る。箸(はし)は利休箸(りきゅうばし)という両端が使える杉箸を客前に置く。酒器は最初は漆器を用いる。汁のお代わりは好みで出す。次に漆器の煮物椀に煮た料理を入れて客に配る。このあと陶磁器の酒器を出し、これで酒を自由に飲み、好みによっては飯を食べてもかまわない。このあとで出す料理は一つの器に盛り合わせ、客はそれを折敷の上にある食器の蓋(ふた)にとって食べる。このほかに強肴(しいざかな)が出る。これは、もう少し召し上がりくださいと強(し)いて出すのでこの名があり、和(あ)え物か酢の物を用いる場合が多い。強肴の次に進め肴をもう一品加えることもあるし、強肴を進め肴ということもある。次に出る小吸い物は箸洗(はしあらい)といい、薄味仕立てになっている。八寸には酒の肴を古くは2種盛ったが、現在では数多くの料理が盛り込んである。最後に漬物と湯桶(ゆとう)が出る。

　懐石料理は旬(しゅん)の材料で、新鮮、良質なものを選び、それに適する料理法をとらねばならない。茶席の次の間でつくるのを原則とするが、いまはそれが不可能な場合が多い。また、茶事には時間の定めがある。それに応じて適切な料理を出さねばならない。寒い冬の早朝催す暁(あかつき)の茶事、夏の朝5～6時の朝茶事、わりあい多く開かれる正午の茶事がある。冬の薄暮から夜にかけて開く夜咄(よばなし)の茶事もある。懐石料理は、それぞれの季節と時刻に適する内容の料理をつくらねばならない。また、それに適する食器も用意しなければならない。いまでは懐石料理の名の日本料理が最高級の日本料理と考えられ、専門の料理屋でつくる場合が多くなっている。内容的にみると、茶懐石本来の姿はかなり薄くなり、茶道の和敬清寂の精神とはいささか離れた内容の料理が、茶懐石の名で出ることもある。一方、本格的な内容の茶懐石料理も、その道の専門家や茶道の関係者の間では盛んである。

［多田鉄之助］

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