Uchiki - Uchiki

A type of clothing worn by nobles. It is in the form of a hanging collar, body, collar, and sleeves. Women's uchiki are wide-sleeved, with a wide body and sleeve width, and are long in length, making them large overall. The garment is made by layering one or more layers over a single layer, and a set of five layers is called an ittsuginu. Among the lined versions, there are those in which the outer fabric and lining are woven together, those called omeri, in which the outer fabric is about 1 cm thicker than the lining at the edges of the collar, cuffs, and hem, and those with a piece of fabric called nakabe added between the outer fabric and lining. In midsummer, hitoe gasane consisted of several single layers of fabric, while in May and September, 'twisted gasane' was used, in which the outer fabric, middle layer fabric, and lining were all single layers with twisted edges, and three layers were combined to form one layer. The outer fabric was of twill, floating fabric, or two-layer fabric. The middle layer fabric was plain silk. The lining in the early modern period was plain silk, but in the Middle Ages, diamond pattern twill was sometimes used. For summer, raw silk, gauze, and cocoon were used. The colors were relatively free except for the forbidden colors, but elaborate designs were made with colors that changed with the seasons. Men may also wear a slightly shorter version as an inner garment.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

公家(くげ)の衣服の一種。垂領(たりくび)形式で襟、身頃(みごろ)、衽(おくみ)、袖(そで)よりなる。女子の袿は、広袖で身幅、袖幅も広く、丈も長く全体に大形につくられている。着装は、単(ひとえ)の上に一領ないし数領を襲(かさ)ね、五領一組のものを五衣(いつつぎぬ)とよんでいる。袷(あわせ)仕立てのものでは、表地と裏地を毛抜き合せにしたもの、おめりといって、表地が襟、袖口、裾(すそ)の各縁(ふち)で裏地より1センチメートルほど、控えて仕立ててあるもの、また表地と裏地の間に中陪(なかべ)といわれる生地を加えたものがある。盛夏には、単物(ひとえもの)を数領襲ねる単襲(ひとえがさね)、5月と9月には「ひねり襲」といって、表地、中陪地、裏地をそれぞれ縁をよりぐけ仕立てで単物とし、3枚あわせて一領としたものも用いた。地質は表地に綾(あや)、浮織物、二陪織物。中陪地は平絹。裏地は近世のものは平絹であるが、中世では菱文(ひしもん)の綾を用いたものもある。夏のものには生絹(きぎぬ)、紗(しゃ)、縠(こめ)などを用いる。色目は禁色以外は比較的自由であるが、四季折々の襲色目に趣向を凝らした。なお男子も内衣として、丈のやや短いものを着用する場合もある。

［高田倭男］

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