Cloth Hakama - Hoko

A type of court noble attire. A variation of the sokutai worn by civil servants for visits to the Imperial Court, ceremonies, and events, and is similar to it. When wearing sokutai, sashi-nuki and shita-bakama are used instead of the ue-no-hakama and ooguchi. Sashinuki were originally hakama made from cloth (linen) and were called fuko, and therefore the sokutai outfit wearing these hakama was called hoko. As this is a more casual outfit than sokutai, it was only permitted to be worn by close aides in emergency situations at the Imperial Court, and was also used for private events for nobles. In the "Masake Costume Collection," it is written, "There is something called Hokoto, which is a beautifully made silk robe, with a silk lining, a silk lining on top, and a sash on the top." In addition, the appearance of wearing a noshi, a shigasane, and a kakumi (crown) was called Hoko. This is a more formal costume than the kakumi no koto.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

公家(くげ)服装の一種。参朝や儀式、行事に着用される文官の束帯(そくたい)の変化形式で、それに準ずるもの。束帯のときにはく表袴(うえのはかま)と大口(おおぐち)のかわりに指貫(さしぬき)と下袴(したばかま)を用いる。指貫は、元来、布（麻布）でつくられた袴で、布袴(ふこ)といわれ、したがってこの袴をはく束帯姿を布袴(ほうこ)とよんだ。これは束帯より略装であるため、朝廷における火急の場合に側近の者に限って着用を許され、また公卿(くぎょう)の私的な行事に用いられた。『雅亮(まさすけ)装束抄』に「ほうこといふ事あり、きぬさしぬきうるはしくきて、そのうへにしたがさねきて、うへのきぬにしりつくりて、おびさしてさくをもつなり」とある。なお、直衣(のうし)に下襲(したがさね)を着て、冠をかぶる姿を直衣布袴(ほうこ)とよんだ。これは冠直衣より改まった装束である。

［高田倭男］

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