Originally, it was a type of vest worn under chain mail by soldiers in medieval Western Europe. It was made with a sashiko stitching technique, and was a knee-length garment made of an outer and inner lining, stuffed with cotton or linen, which were then sewn together. It was incorporated into civilian uniforms as an upper garment from the beginning of the 14th century, and from the 16th to the mid-17th century, it came to be worn by all men, with designs changing in various ways according to the fashions of the time. In the 16th century, the padding, which had been used to make the shoulders and chest puffy and show men's dignity, was removed in the 17th century, and instead of slashes that showed what was worn underneath, buttons became more decorative. Source: Heibonsha World Encyclopedia, 2nd Edition Information |
本来は西欧中世の兵士が鎖帷子(かたびら)の下に着た胴着の一種で,刺子(さしこ)仕立てを特徴とし,表布と裏布の間に綿や麻屑の詰物をして,合わせ縫いした膝丈の衣服。14世紀の初めころから上衣として市民服にもとりいれられ,16世紀から17世紀の中ごろにかけてすべての男子によって着用されるようになり,時代の流行に応じて,デザインもさまざまに変化した。16世紀には肩や胸をふくらませて男子の威厳をあらわした詰物も17世紀に入ると取り去られ,裂け目を入れて下に着るものを見せるスラッシュに代わってボタンが装飾用の価値を増してくる。
出典 株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について 情報 |
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