Hitatare - Hitatare

(1) A jacket worn by commoners and local samurai from ancient times to the Middle Ages. It is also a pair of upper and lower garments used by samurai as formal attire in the late Middle Ages and early modern times. Its name comes from the fact that the jacket has no collar and the collar is sewn vertically. It is thought to have originated from the "chihaya" style tunic-wearing garment made from two strips of cloth, with the center vertical section of the front of the chihaya cut off and sewn onto the collar, sleeves added, and strings attached to both sides of the chest to prevent it from coming undone. A short, thin, tied hakama is worn underneath, and the bottom of the hitatare trousers is tucked into the hakama.

In the Kamakura period, as the samurai class gained power, the sleeves of the hitatare became wider and larger, about one and a half widths, and the hakama were made of the same fabric (kiji) and six widths (muno), forming a top and bottom combination. In addition, following the example of suikan, chrysanthemum stitching was added, but instead of using tassels, round braided cords were tied in the shape of the character "mo" and sewn at key points along the seams. In addition to hemp cloth, silk fabrics were also used for the fabric (kiji), and the waist (strings) of the hakama were made of white plain silk. At first, a standing eboshi hat was worn with the hitatare, but gradually people began to prefer folded eboshi hats, and in the Muromachi period, the formal attire for samurai consisted of an eboshi hat, hitatare, large shawl, kosode, small sword, and a suehiro hat. A distinction was also made between daimon, which had a large pattern, and suou, which was made of linen and had the waistband of the hakama tailored from the same fabric. Long silk hitatare was worn as the formal attire for young samurai. In the Edo period, long hakama was worn as the formal attire for high-ranking samurai of rank or higher, with white kosode underneath. On the other hand, in the Kamakura period, the hitatare worn under armor had narrow sleeves and was made to be gorgeous, suitable for decorating the warrior's first days in battle, with tassels of chrysanthemums and sleeve ties. Higher ranks used Nishiki, Aya, Kara textiles or embroidery, while lower ranks used Murago, knot-dyed dyeing, Surigata, etc. for their elaborate designs. (2) A collarless garment worn as nightwear by nobles in the Heian period.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

（1）古代から中世にかけて、庶民や地方武士が用いた上着。また中世後期、近世に礼装として武家に用いられた上下一対の衣服。この名称は、上着に衽(おくみ)がなく、襟が垂直に縫い付けられていることによる。布二幅(ふたの)でつくられた貫頭衣式の「ちはや」から生まれたと考えられ、ちはやの前面、縦中央部を落とし、それを襟に使って縫い付け、袖(そで)を加え、はだけるのを防ぐため、両胸に紐(ひも)をつけて結ぶ。下に細く短い括(くく)り袴(ばかま)をはき、直垂の裾(すそ)を袴の中へ入れた。

　鎌倉時代、武家勢力の進展とともに、直垂の袖を広く、一幅半に大きくつくり、袴も同じ生地(きじ)で六幅(むの)仕立てとし、上下組合せとして体裁を整えるに至った。また、水干(すいかん)に倣って菊綴(きくとじ)をつけたが、房とせず丸組紐を「も」の字形に結んで縫い目の要所に綴じ付けている。生地(きじ)として麻布のほか絹織物も用いられ、袴の腰（紐）を白平絹でつくるものとした。直垂姿には初め立烏帽子(たてえぼし)が使われたが、しだいに折(おり)烏帽子を好んでかぶるようになり、室町時代には武家の礼装として、烏帽子、直垂、大帷(おおかたびら)、小袖(こそで)、小刀(ちいさがたな)、末広の構成に定め、さらに大型の文様をつけた大紋(だいもん)、麻布製で袴の腰を同じ生地で仕立てた素襖(すおう)の区別も生じた。なお、武家少年の礼装として長絹の直垂が使われた。江戸時代には侍従以上の上級武士の礼装として長袴を用い、下に白小袖を着た。一方、鎌倉時代に、鎧(よろい)の下に着用する直垂は袖を細くつくり、合戦に臨んで武士の一期(いちご)を飾るにふさわしく華麗なものとし、房の菊綴をつけ、袖括りを差し通し、上級の者は錦(にしき)、綾(あや)、唐(から)織物または刺しゅう、下級の者は村濃(むらご)、括り染め、摺型(すりがた)などによって意匠を凝らした。（2）平安時代に、公家(くげ)の夜着として用いられた衽のない衣。

［高田倭男］

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