Noushi

A type of robe worn by nobles (kuge). It means straight clothing. It was worn by the emperor, crown prince, princes, and nobles (kugyo) as everyday clothing. It was the same style as the robe worn in the Ikan, but since the color of the robe was not determined by rank, it was called a zappo. The composition of the costume worn in the naoshi was almost the same as that of the Ikan, but it also included an eboshi hat, naoshi, akome, hitoe, sashinuki, and under-bakama, and a hiogi fan in winter and a kawahori fan in summer. At the end of the Heian period, with the permission of the emperor, nobles and their sons were allowed to wear naoshi to court in naoshi, and they wore a kanmuri (crown) instead of an eboshi hat. This style was called kanmuri naoshi, and the normal style was called eboshi naoshi. Children did not wear eboshi or kanmuri, kept their hairstyle in mizura, and wore small warawa naoshi.

The colours of the naoko were free to be any colour other than the colour of the kimono, but in the late Heian period, in winter the outer garment was white, with the lining in purple or two-tone indigo (cherry blossom), red (red plum), or green (willow), creating layered colours. In summer, the garment was made of single-layered fabric in two-tone indigo (young people), indigo (middle-aged people), and white (elderly people). For both the winter lining and the summer cloth, darker colours were generally used by young people, and lighter colours by the elderly. For the winter lining, crimson or purple was used by young people, two-tone indigo for adults, blue for middle-aged people, and light blue for the elderly. In terms of texture, floating fabric was used in the winter for young people, and twill for the others. Patterns for the emperor and crown prince were small hollyhocks, and for the others, circles of Chinese flowers and circles of lying butterflies. The summer geology for both children and adults is koku, and the pattern is a small triple sash for children and a triple sash for adults.

From the end of the Heian period onwards, in addition to the usual naoshi, the emperor wore ohiki naoshi or osage naoshi, which were slightly longer and not tucked in, with the hem hanging down and pulled back. At this time, the emperor wore long naganouchiginu and long naganohitoe, and red onagabakama instead of sashinuki. Ko naoshi was also called kariginu naoshi or ura kariginu, and was a form of kariginu with brocade of the same fabric attached to the hem. It was also called soba tsugi because the front and back hems were connected by brocade. This was more formal than kariginu and was only used by retired emperors, princes, ministers and generals, and when worn by retired emperors it was called kan no onzo. The texture, color, and design of the ko-naogi are the same as those of the kariginu.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

公家(くげ)の衣服で、袍(ほう)の一種。直(なお)し衣の意。天皇、皇太子、親王、公卿(くぎょう)が日常着として用いた。形は衣冠の袍と同じ縫腋袍(ほうえきのほう)であるが、位階によって色が決められた位袍ではないため、雑袍(ざっぽう)といわれた。直衣を着る装束の構成は、衣冠とほぼ同じであるが、烏帽子(えぼし)をかぶり、直衣、袙(あこめ)、単(ひとえ)を着て、指貫(さしぬき)、下袴(したばかま)をはき、冬に檜扇(ひおうぎ)、夏に蝙蝠(かわほり)扇を手にした。平安時代末期になると雑袍の勅許といって、直衣宣下(せんげ)を受け天皇の許可を得て、公卿とその子息は直衣で参朝できるようになり、そのときは烏帽子のかわりに冠をかぶった。そこでこの姿を冠直衣といい、通常の姿を烏帽子直衣とよぶこととなった。幼年の者は烏帽子や冠をかぶらず、髪形を美豆良(みずら)のままとし、小型の童(わらわ)直衣を着た。

　直衣の色目(いろめ)は、位袍の色以外のものであれば自由であったが、平安時代後期になると、冬は表を白、裏を紫か二藍(ふたあい)（桜）、紅（紅梅）、青（柳）などとして襲(かさね)色目にした。夏は単仕立てで二藍（若年）、縹(はなだ)（壮年）、白（宿老）とした。冬の裏地、夏の生地(きじ)とも一般に濃い色は若年、薄い色は老年が用いるものであった。冬の裏地の紅や紫は若年、二藍は成年、青は壮年、浅葱(あさぎ)は老年が用いた。地質について、幼年の冬は浮織物、その他は綾(あや)。文様は天皇、皇太子が小葵(こあおい)、その他は唐花(からはな)の丸や臥蝶(ふせちょう)の丸。幼年、壮年ともに夏の地質は縠(こく)、文様は、幼年が小型の三重襷(みえだすき)、壮年が三重襷である。

　平安時代末期以後、天皇は通常の直衣のほか、御引(おひき)直衣または御下(おさげ)直衣と称し、身丈をやや長く仕立てたものを掻込(かいこ)みをせず、裾(すそ)をそのまま垂らして後方に引く形式のものを着用した。このときは長御打衣(ながのおんうちぎぬ)、長御単を着て、指貫のかわりに紅の御長袴をはく。小(こ)直衣は狩衣(かりぎぬ)直衣、有襴(うらん)狩衣ともいい、狩衣の裾に同じ生地(きじ)の襴をつけた形式のもの。また前後の裾が襴によってつながれているため傍続(そばつぎ)ともよばれた。これは狩衣よりかしこまった服装として、上皇、親王、大臣、大将のみに用いられ、上皇が着装するときは甘(かん)の御衣(おんぞ)といった。小直衣の地質、色目、文様は狩衣と同じである。

［高田倭男］

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