Smocking - Smocking (English spelling)

Japanese: スモッキング - すもっきんぐ（英語表記）smocking

It is a technique that uses European embroidery techniques to fix the pleats of fabric that have been sewn and gathered, and has elasticity. It is said to have originated in Hungary as a way to make straight-cut clothing conform to the rounded human body. After that, beautiful colors and numerous stitches were adopted in various countries, and it gradually developed into a decorative style. It is often used in the folk clothing of the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Scotland, etc.

[Kimura Mariko]

Stitches used

Outline stitch (single, double), cable stitch (single, double), diamond stitch (mountain stitch), honeycomb stitch, chain stitch, feather stitch, wave stitch, Van Dyke stitch, etc.

[Kimura Mariko]

Fabric

Since the fabric will be sewn and pleated, choose a fabric that is as soft as possible. Commonly used fabrics are thin plain cotton (lawn), linen, cotton, synthetic fibers, chiffon/velvet, thin wool, cashmere, muslin, and georgette. Plain fabrics are often used, but patterns that are easy to mark, such as plaid, vertical stripes, and polka dots (all in large and small sizes), as well as fabrics with regular weaves, single-stitch rib knit fabrics, and rib knit fabrics with one stitch on the front and two stitches on the back, are also available.

[Kimura Mariko]

Applications

Women's and children's clothing, bags, aprons, interior decorations, curtains, cushions, piano hangings, etc. The patterns are mostly geometric, but they are beautiful when embroidered with small floral patterns. In recent years, they have also been used for knitted fabrics. There is also a technique for reverse smocks.

[Kimura Mariko]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

縫い縮めてひだ寄せをした布地のひだを固定させるために、欧風刺しゅうの技法を使ってかがる手法で、伸縮性がある。もともと、直線裁ちの着衣を、丸みのある人体になじませるためのくふうで、ハンガリーにおこったといわれる。その後、さまざまな国で、美しい色彩や数多くのステッチが取り入れられ、しだいに装飾的に発展した。チェコ、スロバキア、ハンガリー、スコットランドなどの民族服に多く使われている。

［木村鞠子］

使われるステッチ

アウトラインステッチ（シングル、ダブル）、ケーブルステッチ（シングル、ダブル）、ダイヤモンドステッチ（山型）、ハネコムステッチ、チェーンステッチ、フェザーステッチ、ウェーブステッチ、バンダイクステッチなど。

［木村鞠子］

布地

布に縫いひだを寄せるので、なるべく柔らかい布地を選ぶ。一般に使われる生地(きじ)は、薄平木綿（ローン）、麻、綿、化合繊、シフォン・ベルベット、薄いウール地、カシミヤ、モスリン、ジョーゼット。無地を使うことが多いが、印のつけやすい、格子柄(こうしがら)、縦縞(たてじま)、水玉（いずれも大から小まで）、また織り目が規則正しい変り織になった布、編み地の一目ゴム編や、一目表目・二目裏目のゴム編み地など。

［木村鞠子］