Kanbun Kosode - Kanbun Kosode

Japanese: 寛文小袖 - かんぶんこそで

…Following the example of Koetsu, Korin also demonstrated his outstanding talent in craft design. In dyeing and weaving, the popularity of short sleeves known as Kanbun kosode (Kanbun patterns) can be cited. This was seen around the time of the Shoho and Enpo eras (1644-81), and featured large patterns that flowed in large curves from the shoulders to the back, making the entire kosode look like a single picture. This signified the transfer of the designs of the Momoyama-style decorative folding screens that were popular in the early period to the world of dyeing and weaving. …

From [Tie-dyeing]

...The patterns become more intricate, but the kosode as a whole has a large pattern that spreads from the shoulders to the hem. For example, a plum tree with flowers spreads widely from the hem to the shoulders, and the plum blossoms are covered with kanbun kosode. Also, sohitsuta shibori, which covers the entire kosode with kanko, became popular. ...

*Some of the terminology that refers to "Kanbun Kosode" is listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

Japanese:

…光琳はまた光悦の例にならって工芸の意匠にもすぐれた才能を発揮している。染織では寛文小袖(寛文模様)といわれる小袖の流行があげられる。これは正保～延宝(1644‐81)ころに見られるもので，肩から背にかけて大柄な文様が小袖全体を一つの画面に見立てるように大きな曲線を作って流れるものであり，初期に流行した桃山風装飾屛風の図様が，染織の世界に移されたことを意味する。…