Kannon

For example, twill changed from the four-ply twill that was mainstream in the previous era to three-ply and six-ply weaves, and new designs were invented, such as kataji twill, which has a three-ply twill ground and a six-ply pattern, ukimon twill, which has a three-ply twill ground and a floating weft with a pattern woven in, floating wefts of different colors raised on a flat ground, and futae (double) fabric, which has a floating weft of a different color woven in a stitch-like style on top of a floating weft of the same color. In addition, the weaving of silk fabrics included the three-ply twisted gauze, which added an additional thread to the existing two-ply twist to make three warp threads, the so-called Mukai-mojire (Kannon-gauze), in which the twists of adjacent warp threads were reversed, the Kenmon-sha, which combined a gauze weave with a plain weave to create a gauze ground and a plain weave for the pattern, and the Komeori, a special variation weave that used a gauze weave. These new textiles were developed and highly valued mainly as materials for court noble costumes, but on the other hand, as the Oribe no Tsukasa weakened, the technology generally declined.

*Some of the terminology explanations that mention "Kannon-shu" are listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…たとえば綾は前代に中心をなした四枚綾から，3枚，6枚の組織を主体とするようになり，地を三枚綾，文を六枚綾とした固地（かたじ）綾や，地を三枚綾とし緯を浮かして文様を織り出した浮文綾，平地に色の異なる絵緯（えぬき）を浮かして文様を織り出した浮織物，あるいは文様も共色で織った浮織物にさらに別の色の絵緯をもって異なった文様を縫取り風に織り出した二陪（ふたえ）(二重)織物などが新たに考案された。また綟り織物には，従来の2本もじれにさらに1本を加えて3本の経糸をもじらせた3本もじれの紗や，隣りあう経糸のもじれをたがいに反対にした，いわゆる対綟（むかいもじれ）(観音綟)が出現したほか，紗の組織と平組織とを組み合わせて地を紗とし，文を平織で表した顕紋紗，紗の組織を利用した特殊な変化組織である縠織（こめおり）なども考案された。これらの新たな織物類は主として公家装束の料として開発され，重用されたが，反面，織部司の弱体化にともなって，その技術は総体的に低下していった。…

※「観音綟」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第２版について | 情報