Grab - grab

Japanese: 搔取 - かいどり

…Bugaku Costumes and Crotches (2) The formal dress worn by samurai women from the Muromachi period onwards, also called kake. It was an outer garment worn over a kosode with a sash, and was also called kaidori because it held the hem in place when walking. In summer, it was called a koshimaki because it was worn with the upper half of the body removed. …

From [Kosode]

...the term is used in contrast to osode, and generally refers to the inner garment worn under a wide-sleeved outer garment, but in a broader sense, all native clothing with tucked-up collars can be called kosode-style, as opposed to the tight-collared clothing imported from China. In a narrower sense, it refers to a type of inner garment that later became outerwear, and then, with the removal of the hakama, became kimono-nagashi, and developed into kimono.
[Origin and Transition]
In Japan's agricultural society that developed from the 3rd century onwards, the clothing of common people consisted of a simple jacket woven from cotton (a variety of cotton fibres from plants that grow wild in the mountains and fields) and trouser-like hakama pants worn over it as a result of work. The jacket of that time, with its narrow sleeves and short length, and its collar pulled together in the middle of the chest, was the prototype for the kosode of later times.

From 【Clothing】

… For women of the samurai class, the wives of the shogun and great feudal lords sometimes wore the formal attire of the nobility, such as the twelve-layered kimono and ukebaku (sash), but generally the hakama was omitted and the uchikake was worn in winter and the loincloth in summer as formal attire. The uchikake was also called kaidori, and was worn over the aigi and kakeshitaobi (sash), with the uchikake pulled down at the hem and removed when walking. The loincloth was worn with an obi tied behind the kimono, and a loincloth was worn over it, with the shoulders removed, and the obi was worn below the waist, the obi was fastened, and the remaining obi was passed through the sleeves. …

*Some of the terminology explanations that mention "scraping" are listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

Japanese:

…舞楽装束裲襠(2)室町時代以降の武家女性の礼服で掛（かけ）ともいう。小袖に帯を締めた上に打ち掛けて着た同形の表着（うわぎ）で，歩くときに褄（つま）をとるため搔取（かいどり）ともいった。夏は上半身を脱いで用いた形から腰巻と呼んだ。…

【小袖】より

…大袖に対する言葉で，一般には広口の袖の表着（うわぎ）の下に用いた内着をさすが，広義には，中国から輸入された襟のつまった服装に対し，襟をかき合わせる固有の服装をすべて小袖系ということができる。狭義には，のちに表着となり，袴を取り去って着流しとなり，〈きもの〉に発展した内着の一種をいう。
【発生と変遷】
　日本の3世紀以降発達した農業社会では，庶民の服装は木綿（ゆう）(山野に自生する植物の繊維で種類は一定しない)で織った単純な上衣と，労働の必要からその上にはいたズボン型の袴との組合せであったが，そのときの，袖の細い，丈の短い，襟を胸の中央でかき合わせる上衣が，後世の小袖の原型である。…

【服装】より

…　武家女子の服装としては，将軍および大諸侯の夫人などに十二単，袿袴（けいこ）などの公家の礼装が用いられたこともあったが，一般には袴は省略されて，冬季には打掛を用い，夏季には腰巻を着装して礼装としていた。打掛は搔取（かいどり）ともいい，間着（あいぎ），掛下帯（かけしたおび）をした上に，これを打ち掛けて裾をひき，歩行に際してはかい取って歩いた。腰巻は帷子の上に付帯を後ろに結び，その上に腰巻を着て肩を脱ぎ，腰以下にこれをまとって腰帯を締め，袖の中に付帯の結びあまりをとおした。…

※「搔取」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典第２版について | 情報

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