...The obiza is thought to have been established around 1488 (Chōkyō 2). According to the Kennaiki, in 1447 (Bun'an 4), the Tendai Zasu of Honjō, who had the right to collect taxes, prohibited the Oyado weavers (who later became part of the Otoneriza) from selling the finished obi directly, and instead ordered them to wholesale to the obi shelf or monmaru, which shows a trend towards the separation of production and sales. Eventually, the obi shelf and monmaru involved in sales came together to form the obiza. ... From [Weaver]…In the Middle Ages, weaver groups living in Oribe-cho and Odoneri-cho to the east became more specialized and formed za (groups of weavers). The majority of these were the Otoneri-za (groups of weavers), which became the source of the Nishijin weaving industry. In various provinces, weaver groups continued to be controlled by the provincial government. From the late Heian to the Kamakura periods, they belonged to the Kunisaikushiyo (national workshops) and were given provincial government lands such as oritekiyu (weaver's salary) and oritemiyou (weaver's name), which allowed them to use the miscellaneous labor or exemptions from taxes and miscellaneous labor to purchase raw materials, looms, food, etc. This system was also partially adopted by manor lords and jito (local lords) in various provinces throughout the Middle Ages. … From Nishijin…However, from the middle of the Heian period, it became difficult to maintain workshops in the imperial court, and craftsmen also showed signs of becoming independent. The weavers who belonged to the Oribe no Tsukasa formed the Dai Toneri-za, with the Manri-koji family as their headquarters, and became the center of the medieval textile industry. When the Onin and Bunmei Wars broke out, the weavers evacuated to Nara, Otsu, Sakai, and other places to avoid the turmoil of the war, but when the war ended, they returned to Kyoto and resumed their business in Hakuun Village, located near Shinzaike-cho, above the current Shinmachi Imadegawa. … From [Nishijin Textile]…On the other hand, the Otonerikata made a comeback, focusing on the Nishijin site, mainly with twill fabrics. Some people moved from Hakuun Village to the Nishijin site, and after that, the Otonerikata and the Nenkankata competed for dominance in woven products, but in 1571 (Genki 2), the Otonerikata was made the Okura-ryo Textile Officer, and the foundations of the Nishijin textile industry were consolidated. However, the technical level had declined significantly at that time, and the Assistant Oribe Officer continued to improve the technique, gradually leading to the weaving of new content and expression. … *Some of the terminology that refers to the "Daitoneri-za" is listed below. Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information |
…帯座の成立は1488年(長享2)ごろと考えられる。《建内記》によると,1447年(文安4),でき上がった帯を大宿織手(のち大舎人座を構成)が直接販売することが,課役徴収権をもつ本所の天台座主によって禁じられ,帯棚または問丸に卸すこととされているが,ここには生産と販売が分離されていく傾向が見られる。やがて販売に携わる帯棚・問丸が結集して帯座が成立した。… 【織手】より…中世に入ると,織部町や東接する大舎人(おおどねり)町に集住する織手集団が一段と専業度を強め,座を構成するようになる。その主流が大舎人座であり,西陣機業の源流となった。諸国においても,織手集団は引き続き国衙に掌握されており,平安後期から鎌倉期にかけて国細工所(くにさいくしよ)に所属し,雑役(ぞうやく)もしくは年貢・雑役の免除分を織手の原料,織機,食料などに充当する織手給(おりてきゆう),織手名(おりてみよう)などの国衙領を与えられて生産を維持しており,この方式は,中世を通して各地の荘園領主や地頭にも部分的に採用された。… 【西陣】より…しかし平安時代中ごろから朝廷では工房を維持することが困難になり,職人たちも独立の方向を示した。織部司に属した織手たちは万里小路家を本所として大舎人座を結成し,中世織物業の中心となった。応仁・文明の乱が起きると,織手たちは戦乱をさけて奈良,大津,堺などに疎開したが,大乱が終わるとともに帰洛し,現在の新町今出川上ル新在家町辺の白雲村に住んで営業を再開した。… 【西陣織】より…一方,大舎人方は西陣跡を中心とし,主として綾織物をもって再登場する。白雲村から西陣跡に移る者もあり,その後,大舎人方と練貫方は成織品について主導権をあらそうが,1571年(元亀2)大舎人座は内蔵寮織物司に補せられて,西陣機業の基礎が固められた。しかし当時の技術的水準の低下は著しく,補織部司によって技術上の工夫が続けられ,しだいに新しい内容表現の織物が行われることとなった。… ※「大舎人座」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。 出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報 |
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