...the name of a silk fabric and a type of Noh costume. The term "Karaorimono" was used to refer to precious fabrics imported from the Ming Dynasty of China during the Muromachi period, evoking beautiful fabrics such as brocade and donsu. It is thought that the so-called "Karaori" was included in this category, but it is unclear how "Karaori" was called at the time. In terms of the fabric structure, it is similar to Ranken Nishiki, one of the famous textiles. "Karaori" is usually used for obi and Noh costumes, and is mainly made of raw silk, with three-ply twill fabric and patterns created using a variety of painting wefts in over a dozen colors, with gold and silver threads added. ... From [Noh Costume]…Red is especially respected as a special color, and the word 'iro' simply means red. In terms of costumes for female roles, 'iroiri' means costumes using reddish colors, and is usually used for young, beautiful women such as the shite in 'Kumano (Yuya)' and 'Matsukaze', while 'iro-nashi' means costumes without reddish colors, and is usually used for middle-aged women such as those in 'Sumida-gawa' and 'Mii-dera'. Another important point in color distinction is the color of the collar. … *Some of the terminology explanations that mention "Ironashi" are listed below. Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information |
…絹織物の名称,また能装束の一種。〈唐織物〉の語は,室町時代に中国の明から輸入された貴重な織物を指して用いられ,金襴,緞子(どんす)などの美麗な織物が想起される。いわゆる〈唐織〉もそれに含められていたと思われるが,当時〈唐織〉をどのように呼んでいたかは不明である。織物組織的には,名物裂の中の乱絹(らんけん)錦がこれに類似する。〈唐織〉は通常,帯や能装束に用いられるもので,主として生糸を素材に三枚綾地とし,十数色に及ぶ多彩な絵緯(えぬき)によって文様をあらわし,さらに金銀糸が加わる。… 【能装束】より…とくに赤い色が特殊な色として尊重され,単に〈いろ〉といえば赤い色のことだけを意味する。女性役の装束について,〈いろ入り〉といえば赤系の色を使った装束のことで,《熊野(ゆや)》や《松風》のシテのような若く美しい女に用い,〈いろ無し〉といえば赤系の色を使わない装束のことで,《隅田川》《三井寺》のような中年の女に用いるのが普通のきまりになっている。色の区別でもう一点重要なのは襟の色である。… ※「いろ無し」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。 出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報 |
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