Mold - Igata (English spelling)

Japanese: 鋳型 - いがた(英語表記)mold
Mold - Igata (English spelling)

A container into which molten metal is poured (cast) to create a casting. Molds for art and craft castings are handcrafted one by one by artists, but molds for the foundry industry, which mass-produces castings of uniform size, are made efficiently and continuously by automated molding machines. Except in special cases, molds are made by mixing fire-resistant silica sand with clay and water as a binder, kneading the mixture thoroughly, and tamping it down to harden it.

As an example, we will explain how to make a mold for making flanged pipes. First, prepare a model of the product. It is made of wood or metal and is divided into two halves, top and bottom. The bottom half is placed on a stand called a joban, with the cut side facing down, and a lower frame is placed on it. After that, mixed casting sand is poured in and tamped thoroughly. Then, turn it upside down, remove the joban, and place the top half of the model on top of the bottom half of the model that is buried in the casting sand. Then, sprinkle a small amount of mica powder on the surface of the sand in the lower mold, place the upper frame, and set a sprue on top of the upper half of the model. Then pour in the mixed sand and tampe it. After that, remove the sprue, lift the upper mold upward, and separate it from the lower mold, then invert it. The reason mica powder is sprinkled on the surface of the sand in the lower mold first is to make it easier to separate the upper and lower molds. Next, remove the models from the upper and lower molds, and fit a rod-shaped sand core that has been made separately and dried into the lower mold. To place the core in the correct position, the model has protrusions called baseboards on both ends, and both ends of the core fit into the recesses in the sand mold that correspond to these protrusions. The upper mold is then placed over the lower mold with the core in it, and the mold is complete. When metal is poured through the sprue, the upper mold is floated by the molten metal, so a sufficient weight must be placed on top of the upper mold to withstand this. After the casting has solidified and cooled to an appropriate temperature, the mold is broken and the product is removed. The broken mold is crumbled and regenerated as foundry sand, and the binder, water, etc. are remixed and used repeatedly in mold production. Molds made in this way, where sand particles are bonded with clay and water, are called green sand molds, and are the most widely used.

In green sand molds, the heat of the molten metal can cause the water to evaporate, resulting in various defects in the product; to prevent this, the molds are sometimes dried after molding, and are called dried molds. Furthermore, to increase the strength of the mold and prevent various defects caused by the mold sand being caught in the molten metal flow, strong binders other than clay are used. For example, sodium silicate, cement, gypsum, and even organic substances such as furan resin and phenolic resin are used. Furan resin is hardened at room temperature by the action of an acid catalyst, while phenolic resin is hardened by heat by coming into contact with a metal model at around 250°C to form the mold. The latter is called a shell mold and is widely used.

[Katsuya Igawa and Zenshiro Hara]

[Reference item] | Shell mold method
How to make a flanged pipe mold
©Shogakukan ">

How to make a flanged pipe mold


Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

鋳物をつくるために溶融金属を流し込む(鋳込む)容器。美術工芸品鋳物の鋳型は、芸術家が一つずつ手作りでつくりあげるが、同一寸法の鋳物製品を大量生産する鋳物工業の鋳型は、自動化した造型機械により能率よく連続的につくられている。特殊な場合を除いて、鋳型は耐火性のよい珪砂(けいさ)に粘結剤として粘土と水を配合し、よく混練してこれをつき固めてつくる。

 例としてフランジ付きの管をつくるための鋳型の作り方を述べる。まず製品の模型を用意する。木製あるいは金属製であり、上下二つ割りになっている。この下半分を切り口を下にして定盤(じょうばん)と呼ばれる台にのせ、下枠を置いたのち、混練した鋳物砂を入れてよくつき固める。ついでこれを上下反転し、定盤を取り去り、模型の上半分を、鋳物砂に埋まっている模型の下半分の上にのせる。そして下型の砂の表面に雲母(うんも)粉を少量振りかけたのち、上枠をのせ、模型上半分の上に湯口棒を立ててから、混練した砂を入れてつき固める。その後湯口棒を抜き、上型を上方に持ち上げ、下型と離して反転して置く。先に下型の砂表面に雲母粉を振りかけるのは、このとき上型、下型の離れを容易にするためである。ついで上型、下型からそれぞれ模型を抜き取り、あらかじめ別につくって乾燥しておいた砂製の棒状の中子(なかご)を下型にはめる。このとき中子を正しい位置に置くために、模型には両端に幅木とよぶ突起をつけておき、砂型のこの突起に対応するくぼみに中子の両端がはまるようにする。中子をはめた下型の上に上型をかぶせると鋳型が完成する。金属を湯口から鋳込む場合は、上型が溶融金属によって浮かされるので、これに耐えるように十分な重石(おもし)を上型の上にのせておかなければならない。鋳物が凝固し適当な温度まで冷却したのち、鋳型を壊して製品を取り出す。壊された鋳型は崩して鋳物用砂として再生し、粘結剤、水分などを再調合して鋳型製作に繰り返し使用する。このように砂粒子を粘土と水で粘結した鋳型を生(なま)砂型とよび、もっとも広く用いられる。

 生砂型は溶融金属の熱により水分が蒸発して製品に種々の欠陥を生ずる場合があり、これを防ぐために造型後乾燥することもあり、これを乾燥型という。また鋳型強度を高め、鋳型砂が溶融金属流に巻き込まれて生ずる種々の欠陥を防止するために、粘土以外の強力な粘結剤が用いられている。たとえばケイ酸ソーダ、セメント、石膏(せっこう)、さらに有機物としてフラン樹脂やフェノール樹脂が用いられる。フラン樹脂は酸性触媒の作用で常温硬化させ、フェノール樹脂は250℃前後の金属模型と接触させることにより熱硬化させて鋳型とする。後者はシェルモールドshell mouldとよばれ、広く利用されている。

[井川克也・原善四郎]

[参照項目] | シェルモールド法
フランジ付き管の鋳型の作り方
©Shogakukan">

フランジ付き管の鋳型の作り方


出典 小学館 日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について 情報 | 凡例

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